Potong

In the vibrant heart of Bangkok, amidst the winding curves of the iconic Yaowarat Road in the epicenter of Chinatown, lies a place where time, gastronomy, and family heritage intertwine almost mystically. We’re talking about Potong, a restaurant whose story began long before its doors opened in 2021. The narrow, elongated Sino-Portuguese building from the 19th century has been in Pam’s family for over four generations; it was here that her ancestors, Chinese immigrants, settled and started a business producing and selling traditional Chinese medicine.

This space, with walls steeped in memories, dreams, and achievements, was transformed after an exhaustive and meticulous restoration into the culinary haven of Pichaya Soontornyanakij, known worldwide as “Chef Pam.” The young chef began her career in the U.S., graduating from the Culinary Institute of America and working for years alongside Jean-Georges Vongerichten in New York before returning to Bangkok. Initially, she started with less disruptive and more commercially oriented projects before making a significant impact on the city’s culinary scene with Potong, a name that holds the legacy of the former family business.

In this restaurant, Pam faces not only the usual challenges of the industry but also the complex mission of honoring her family’s history and keeping the memory of past generations alive while exploring different aspects of culinary alchemy.

Upon entering Potong, we are immediately immersed in an atmosphere that is both intimate and grandiose. The high ceilings, soft lighting, carefully selected materials and textures, and thoughtfully designed layout create an environment that invites introspection and sensory exploration. It’s a place where the presence of time is palpable but also a space that exudes a promise of innovation.

It is this innovation that Sacha, the Maître D, promises us right on the ground floor, where we were invited to learn about the building’s history while observing part of its legacy and savoring an exquisitely prepared kombucha, just like a fine cocktail.

After the introductions, we ascend to the top floor. Although there is a small elevator, for a truly immersive experience, it’s recommended to use the narrow stairs, where every detail of the floors can be appreciated. On this rooftop, I had a surprising reconciliation with Thai wine—my first experience in 2013 was terrible—but a 2018 Chardonnay from Issara Estates, carefully crafted exclusively for Potong, suggested there might still be hope for Thai wine. The wine accompanied the first snacks: a selection of Chinese charcuterie, including Lop Yok (cured pork belly), Yunnan Ham (Chinese ham), and Lap Cheong (the country’s most famous cured sausage). Each was paired with a specific creation that complemented it, whether sweeter and fruitier, more acidic, or bitter.

Once settled on the lower floor, we delved deeper into Pam’s World, exploring her family history and culinary motivations. The experience began with a heartfelt card featuring a dedication from the chef to her grandparents, followed by her introduction to her cuisine—modern Thai cuisine with Chinese influences.

With a glass of Champagne La Rogerie Heroine 2014 on the table, we were presented with the Black Chicken with Herbs and Broth, a rich appetizer with a good contrast of textures and a broth served separately, capable of warming even the coldest hearts.

By this point, it was obvious that we were not in a place without substance, whose only goal was to sell a story or, at best, serve good food. Pam wants more, and the title of Asia’s Best Female Chef 2024 at Asia’s 50 Best reflects that ambition. A prime example of this pursuit is the dish “A Tale of a Banana Tree,” which, besides addressing sustainability, brings a shift in mindset, all explained in a comic-style story.

“A Tale of a Banana Tree” is a trio of snacks that aims to use the banana in all its forms, from the leaf and stem to the fruit itself, starting with the banana with chicken livers, the flower with garum, and the stem with peanuts, shrimp, and lime. Three delightful, visually appealing, and flavor-packed moments.

Next came one of the most beautiful moments of the night: the Crab, served in different preparations. First, the meat in one of those curries that only Thais know how to prepare, and inside the shell, a combination of crab roe emulsion with black pepper jam, perhaps the most beautiful and refined version of a Black Pepper Crab.

The pairing here was with a Karl Haidle Samling 2021, a natural German wine made from the Kerner grape, whose citrus notes, bold flavor, and minerality complemented the dish very well.

The next dish was a tribute to Pad Thai, the dish that is to Thailand what Carbonara is to Italy, serving as the perfect representation of Thai cuisine with Chinese influences. Here, the distinctive form of the food took our eyes to a place far from the usual street food plate. While the appearance might deceive, the taste transported us to the dish’s essence, elevated by unique ingredients like the carabineros and their refined-tasting broth or the flag-shaped rice noodles.

To maintain the moment’s authenticity, the dish was paired with sato, a rice wine made from glutinous rice.

Pam called the following dish “reincarnated,” a version of a dish her mother used to cook. A Morel mushroom over a “yin yang” pasta with egg yolk, dried shrimp, and pork broth, bringing the comfort of grandmother’s cooking to the refined World of fine dining.

The wine pairing was Italian, the Montenidoli Il Templare 2019, a combination of Vernaccia, Trebbiano, and Malvasia. While not particularly special on its own, it paired very well with the dish’s flavors.

The main course was the night’s highlight (in fact, one of the best of the entire trip to Bangkok): Duck, the main ingredient that showcased the best of the Thai/Chinese fusion proposed by Potong. The breast was perfectly cooked, with moist, pink meat and crispy skin, the result of careful selection, pre-cooking with vinegar, and 14 days of aging.

But the dish didn’t stop at the breast: roasted brain, a terrine made with giblets, stewed leg combined with eggplant, and various accompaniments elevated the experience to the sublime. And yes, the dish was so good that we asked for a second serving!

A great dish deserves a wine to match, and the choice fell on a 2018 Brunello di Montalcino Poggio di Sotto. This wine needs no introduction. It is austere but with elegant tannins, full of ripe fruit and spices, and refined by acidity, making it a perfect demonstration of Sangiovese.

The pre-dessert was presented on a block of ice: Salak, an essential fruit in Thai-Chinese culture often served at the end of a meal. It was transformed into a precious pastry jewel with contrasting textures and balance.

The meal continued with a dessert centered around Corn. A delicate mousse served with milk ice cream and other corn-based textures was balanced, smooth, and elegant, making for a great end to the meal.

As expected, the petit fours arrived in tribute to the dessert carts that roamed Chinatown. The presentation was elegant and delicious, demonstrating that pastry is greatly considered on Potong’s menu.

The service flowed seamlessly from the entrance to the farewell, expertly managed by Sacha di Silvestre. There’s nothing like a well-trained Italian in the art of service to make everything feel natural and spontaneous.

Final Thoughts

In a time when restaurants, especially those in the World’s 50 Best Circuit, focus more on creating a story and promoting a concept, discovering a restaurant with genuine history and identity feels like a breath of fresh air.

Here, we feel the “Truth” in the space, discourse, and walls. Potong is an extension of Pam, rooted in that narrow street in Chinatown, with a unique gastronomic concept that couldn’t exist anywhere else. There’s no room for trends or expansion into modern buildings, which we find beautiful in today’s World.

Beyond this empirical beauty, Potong is one of the most exciting restaurants in Bangkok, showing that its rapid rise was no accident. The combination of the chef’s personal history, the preservation of the centuries-old space, and the bold culinary proposal that brings dishes challenging the norms of international fine dining, even daring to feature a “family dish” as a primary menu moment. These are enough reasons to make this restaurant a must-visit for lovers of fine dining visiting the city.

And don’t forget, after the meal, the magic continues at the Opium Bar, but that’s a story for another time.