In the morning I was in Slovenia. There was frost on the hotel windows and breakfast — magnificent as it was — ended up carrying that particular flavour of things eaten without…
Milka: A Star in the Forest
Many of my colleagues and friends insist that the best restaurants should be visited in summer, when the light is right, and the landscape reveals itself in full. I agree, in theory.…
Waldhotel Sonnora: The Last Dish
The road that winds from the Mosel valley up to Dreis is an exercise in shedding layers. We leave behind the vertiginous Riesling vineyards, castles worthy of postcards, river-cruise tourists and camper…
LIZ: The Mozambican Accent
Rua de Mota Pinto has no tourists. Pinheiro Manso is not Foz or Baixa, there are no tiles to photograph, no amplified fado drifting through the air, no terraces selling questionable versions…
I Tenerumi: Davide Guidara’s Hanging Garden
Therasia Resort — Vulcano, Aeolian Islands On the eve of my arrival in Sicily, I lost my watch. It stayed inside a black pocket, under the seat, forgotten the way we forget…
Il Cappero: The “Time” of Vulcano
Therasia Resort — Vulcano, Aeolian Islands Vulcano is not an easy destination. There is no airport, no bridge, no shortcuts between journeys and mishaps, and my incursion began with a watch lost…
Bentoteca: Freedom Without a Star
In 2020, Yoji Tokuyoshi returned his Michelin star, not as a provocative gesture, nor out of exhaustion or fear. After the pandemic, much had changed. His delivery project took on a life…
Moebius Sperimentale: Anarchy, Technique and a Star
June. Milan was simmering. I arrived on Via Cappellini just after seven. The air was thick — that Lombard heat that glues your shirt to your back the second you leave air…
SEM: When Waste Becomes Gold
Alfama, Lisbon — between what endures and what changes Alfama still looks like Alfama. Uneven cobblestones, an ancient urban fabric, tiles worn smooth by time. But beneath this almost immutable appearance, the…