Francisca fell asleep shortly after Vila Real. By the time she woke up, the river was already running alongside the road — silent and luminous between the vineyards. The Douro is one…
Pulejo: A new latin
Prati doesn’t appear in the more obvious guides to Rome, and the locals would rather it stayed that way. The lady with the shopping cart argues with the greengrocer over the price…
Coro: A Lay Liturgy
In the morning I was in Slovenia. There was frost on the hotel windows and breakfast — magnificent as it was — ended up carrying that particular flavour of things eaten without…
Milka: A Star in the Forest
Many of my colleagues and friends insist that the best restaurants should be visited in summer, when the light is right, and the landscape reveals itself in full. I agree, in theory.…
Waldhotel Sonnora: The Last Dish
The road that winds from the Mosel valley up to Dreis is an exercise in shedding layers. We leave behind the vertiginous Riesling vineyards, castles worthy of postcards, river-cruise tourists and camper…
LIZ: The Mozambican Accent
Rua de Mota Pinto has no tourists. Pinheiro Manso is not Foz or Baixa, there are no tiles to photograph, no amplified fado drifting through the air, no terraces selling questionable versions…
I Tenerumi: Davide Guidara’s Hanging Garden
Therasia Resort — Vulcano, Aeolian Islands On the eve of my arrival in Sicily, I lost my watch. It stayed inside a black pocket, under the seat, forgotten the way we forget…
Il Cappero: The “Time” of Vulcano
Therasia Resort — Vulcano, Aeolian Islands Vulcano is not an easy destination. There is no airport, no bridge, no shortcuts between journeys and mishaps, and my incursion began with a watch lost…
Bentoteca: Freedom Without a Star
In 2020, Yoji Tokuyoshi returned his Michelin star, not as a provocative gesture, nor out of exhaustion or fear. After the pandemic, much had changed. His delivery project took on a life…