Gaggan Anand is one of those rare figures who occasionally emerge to challenge conventions and redefine what we understand as modern gastronomy. The first time I encountered him, in 2014, I was astonished by a creative explosion that combined the precision of molecular cuisine with the intense flavors of India. Ten years later, in 2024, that experience has been completely transformed. Gaggan didn’t just evolve—he reinvented himself entirely.

What was once a revolution in technique and flavors has now expanded into something more significant: a complete immersion in Gaggan’s unique world, where his irreverent and untamable personality sets the rules. Visiting Gaggan in Bangkok is like stepping into a whirlwind of emotions, where gastronomy and performance intertwine in ways beyond any traditional definition of a restaurant. In fact, calling this space a “restaurant” would be reductive, as what happens here is more akin to a stage — a stage where food is just one part of a performance that involves drama, music, comedy, and a well-calibrated dose of provocation.

Upon entering the “G Spot,” the informal name for the room where everything unfolds, it becomes clear that Gaggan is not interested in reproducing the classic codes of haute cuisine. Here, there’s no traditional menu to choose from. The team decides everything you eat and drink. Gaggan and his cooks determine what will be served and control the pace of the evening, including when you can take a break, when you should talk, or even when you can sing.
At first glance, it may seem absurd. And to many, it is! But Gaggan Anand is not for everyone. If you’re not prepared to lose control and see multiple conventions subverted, you might as well cross his name off your bucket list. It’s a favor to both yourself and the team.

For those willing to step into this universe, the experience is overwhelming, like a journey that blends nostalgia, provocations, and a generous dose of humor. Every dish seems to carry a larger concept, where Gaggan breaks expectations and challenges perceptions of what fine dining is. The night goes far beyond the food. It critiques the restaurant industry, the dogmas permeating the global gastronomic scene, and the narratives many restaurants and awards try to sell us. One example is the provocative dish “Rat Has Brains.” Far from being an empty provocation, it’s a biting satire on sustainable restaurants, zero-kilometer sourcing, and self-production in the concrete and pollution-filled jungle that is Bangkok.

Despite some terrified glances from the diners, it’s obviously not a sustainable rat brain farmed on the building’s rooftop. Instead, it appears to be a delicious soubise filled with caramelized onions and a binding agent, with a bit of beetroot serving as blood. Or at least that’s what I preferred to believe, as the ingredients were never fully disclosed, and opinions at the table varied regarding its components.

The entire performance is led by Gaggan, who takes on the role of master of ceremonies, DJ, and leading actor, displaying his histrionic charisma and the passion that made him famous. His team follows in a near-theatrical rhythm, with choreography that seems rehearsed to perfection, yet with enough room for spontaneity and improvisation. The carefully selected music and the lighting, which alternates between tension and relief, help create an atmosphere more akin to a show than a simple dinner.


From Ed Sheeran to Foo Fighters, from Backstreet Boys to Limp Bizkit, passing through Linkin Park, Panjabi MC, and J Balvin, to the tender moment when “Hey Jude” by The Beatles reverberates through the room. Each song is part of a pre-selected narrative from which the maestro improvises to his liking, skillfully transporting us from one emotional state to another.



Over 22 courses, nothing is what it seems to be. Everything is meticulously crafted to disrupt order and construct a sharp discourse, where technique, precision, and flavor come together in a harmony that challenges traditional notions of fine dining.
Gaggan repeatedly expresses his vision of equality at the table, demystifying what is considered “elitist food” and bringing it closer to more popular fare.
Gaggan repeatedly expresses his vision of equality at the table, demystifying what is considered “elitist food” and bringing it closer to more popular fare. This is reflected in dishes that, in their deconstructed form, challenge traditional fine dining notions and draw parallels with social and cultural themes.

However, as I mentioned, this experience is not for everyone. You either love it or hate it. It requires a complete surrender to the unexpected, an acceptance of provocations, and, above all, a willingness to enter with an open mind, free of preconceptions. A good example is the choice of natural wines, selected by Vladimir Kojic, the Serbian sommelier who has been following Gaggan’s creative madness for years.
Kojic presents exceptional labels from producers such as Gut Oggau, Andreas Tscheppe, Tschida, and Čotar, alongside surprises like a Hiokozakura sake and a rare Olivier Horiot champagne that I never expected to find in a pairing. A selection that even the most skeptical of natural wine critics would find hard to dismiss.

For those willing to embrace the unexpected, Gaggan’s organized chaos offers one of the most memorable and entertaining nights you can have sitting at a table. It is an experience that transcends gastronomy, remaining alive in the memory long after the lights dim and the last musical note fades through the room.

Price: 430€ with paring and taxes
68 Sukhumvit 31, Sukhumvit Rd, Wattana – Bangkok