In Georgia, telling someone they want duck dolma is telling them their wishes are unrealistic. The expression comes from Georgian folklore and usually travels with another, about owls’ eggs; both name the…
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I arrived in Tbilisi halfway through the week, which on a press trip is like walking into a cinema after the film has started, with colleagues talking about dinners I hadn’t eaten,…
Riemergasse is a narrow, unshowy street, minutes from the Opera yet outside the theatre of the Ring. We arrived at the Mandarin Oriental on a January afternoon — sunlit, but with the…
