Il Ristorante at Bvlgari Hotel Roma: Italian Essence and the Heart of Niko Romito

Niko Romito, one of the most influential Italian chefs, has redefined haute cuisine by reducing each dish to its purest essence. At the helm of Reale, his three-Michelin-starred restaurant, he has elevated minimalism and authenticity to the status of culinary art. His partnership with the Bvlgari group marked an unprecedented step: the internationalization of his unique vision to the most exclusive destinations worldwide, proving that technique and identity can travel without losing their genuineness.

Several hotels now bear the chef’s signature through “Il Ristorante – Niko Romito,” boasting Michelin stars in distinct locations such as Dubai and Tokyo. In his most recent venture, located at the imposing Bvlgari Hotel Roma, he reaffirms his pursuit of genuine flavors, reconstructing traditional recipes using the terroir as his guide.

The restaurant perfectly synthesizes Niko Romito’s understated sophistication and Bvlgari’s timeless refinement. Modern yet deeply Italian, the space is bathed in warm light streaming through large windows, highlighting noble materials where leather, stone, and wood whisper tales of Ancient Rome. Subtle elements evoke Roman tradition, creating a balance between elegance and comfort. The ambiance combines intimacy and well-being, allowing the food to shine without excess.

The Experience: A Journey Between Simplicity and Sublimity

Before sitting at the table, we stopped by the Bvlgari Bar for an aperitif, which was very much in Roman style. The highlight was the Marigold Negroni, a cocktail combining Vermouth Mancino Amaranto Rosso, Campari, Tanqueray Ten, Marigold Flowers, and Yellow Chartreuse. Complex and aromatic, it stood out as one of the most memorable twists on the classic Negroni I experienced in 2024. Accompanied by delicate appetizers such as fish tartare or focaccia with mortadella, the occasion evoked that quintessentially Italian late-afternoon feeling, where everything seems to slow down to savor la dolce vita.

taça com o caldo absoluto de Niko Romito
The Absolute of Onion, Carrot, and Celery

If the bar promised a relaxed prelude, the mood shifted at the table: here, culinary precision orchestrated the show, never forgetting that the audience seeks comfort, not a molecular gastronomy class. We began with Champagne Maurice Vesselle La Cuvée 53 Grand Cru, bringing freshness and elegance, accompanied by an amuse-bouche that encapsulates Romito’s philosophy: the Absolute, a broth capturing the essence of flavor in its purest form. Made solely by extracting the natural water from the vegetables composing it, this first contact was almost a declaration of intent—a prelude to how simplicity can be profoundly complex.

Next came a selection of bread, a highlight and one of the chef’s passions: from crunchy sourdough crackers to addictive grissini and slow-fermented bread, showcasing simplicity that becomes a lesson in technique and terroir. Textures, aromas, and flavors transformed this everyday staple into an art form.

prato com escarola e ervas que revela a filosofia de Niko Romito
Glazed Escarole, Cream, Pine Nuts, and Cherry Tomatoes

The glazed escarole entered as a supporting actor among the starters but ended up stealing the spotlight. It’s living proof that even leafy greens can shine in the hands of the right chef. The subtle bitterness of the escarole found harmony in the creaminess of pine nuts and the acidity of cherry tomatoes, delivering a dish that speaks directly to Romito’s philosophy. More than a dish, it was a vegetal narrative encapsulating Romito’s essence: simplicity elevated to art. Each bite made it impossible not to anticipate the magic awaiting at Reale.

Prato moderno de Vitello Tonnato feito por Niko Romito
Vitello Tonnato

Still among the starters, the Vitello Tonnato offered a contemporary interpretation of a classic. The balance between texture and flavor revealed Romito’s respect for traditions, subtly enhanced by nuances that complemented the dish. Very well executed!

To pair with the starters, the sommelier rightly suggested a Fattoria Coroncino Stracaccio, a historic producer of natural wines in Italy whose well-crafted offerings never needed labels or trends to stand out.

prato de pasta com lavagante e camarão vermelho de Niko Romito
Linguine with Lobster and Red Prawn

The linguine with lobster and red prawn was an ode to the Mediterranean: delicate seafood and a flawless sauce in a conversation of flavors so well-rehearsed it felt like a perfectly harmonious political speech—a rarity, one might say.

Pasta com molho de tomate, um clássico moderno de niko romito
Niko Romito’s Famous Pasta with Tomato

Still in the “Primi” section, we enjoyed tasting another iconic dish: Spaghetti al Pomodoro, a creation by Niko Romito. This dish, which has become a signature at all “Il Ristorante” locations, stands out for its simplicity and depth of flavor. Developed at Reale about a decade ago, it reflects Romito’s passion for tomatoes, an essential ingredient in Italian cuisine. The preparation involves precise techniques to extract maximum flavor, producing a perfectly balanced sauce that coats the pasta beautifully. This dish is an ode to Italian tradition, where ingredient quality and meticulous execution come together to create a memorable experience.

Interestingly, the pasta is cooked slightly beyond the traditional al dente point, an intentional choice by the chef to avoid the starchy texture that can linger in firmer pasta. A dish that could quickly become a daily favorite.

Belíssimo prato pintado à mão a servir de base para pregado com trufa branca e um aveludado molho de alho francês
Turbot with White Truffle and Leek Sauce

Among the main courses, the turbot with white truffle and leek sauce hovered between technical precision and emotional resonance. The softness of the perfectly cooked turbot contrasted with the intoxicating aroma of mature white truffle. While a touch more salt could have enhanced the dish, the leek sauce brought unexpected depth, elevating the experience and leaving a lasting impression.

Here, sommelier Fabrizio Gismondi took a bold risk by pairing it with Pitasso 2020, a 100% Timorasso by Claudio Mariotto. Initially, the wine’s unique aroma may seem like a flaw, but it reveals its identity as it evolves in the glass, showcasing a rich body and pronounced minerality.

Prato com uma costeleta de vitela panada ao estilo milanês
Milanese Veal Chop

To close the savory chapter, we shared a Milanese veal chop. The milk-fed veal served crispy and succulent, was accompanied by sautéed mushrooms, roasted potatoes, and spinach with garlic, olive oil, and chili. Once again, the dish brought comfort and refinement in equal measure.

For the meat, the Morey-Saint-Denis 2008 by Pierre Bourée Fils was a perfect choice, adding depth, structure, and aroma to the ensemble.

Chocolate Cream, Hazelnut Praline, and Pear
Bonet – A Piedmontese Chocolate and Amaretti Pudding

The desserts celebrated technique, refined aesthetics, and balance, avoiding excessive sweetness. The Chocolate cream with hazelnut praline and pear was a study of texture and flavor contrasts. At the same time, the Bonet, a Piedmontese tradition, was renewed with a caramel gelato that added a luxurious and nostalgic touch.

White Chocolate Millefeuille with Salted Caramel

Finally, the millefeuille crowned the experience with layers of thin, crispy pastry contrasting with a rich, velvety white chocolate cream that melted in the mouth, complemented by salted caramel—both invigorating and sophisticated. A beautiful ending to a chapter often underestimated.

Petit fours

The service was professional yet free from pomp and pretense, delivered with smiles, warmth, and humility—qualities often absent in luxury hotel restaurants. A special mention to sommelier Fabrizio Gismondi, who, interestingly, began his wine journey in Portugal. His ability to craft a wine list with unconventional choices, showcasing irreverent producers and surprising pairings, was precisely what one expects from a sommelier but so rarely experiences.

Conclusion

Dining at Il Ristorante is, in every sense of the term, a “true dinner.” When visiting restaurants of acclaimed chefs—especially those with Niko Romito’s credentials—we often expect a lesson in gastronomy, shocking combinations, or confrontations with new techniques and flavors. But thankfully, that’s not what Niko intended for this space. Here, we experienced Italian cuisine executed with the precision of a chef’s kitchen but with the ingredients and flavors of grandmothers’ cooking, though Romito’s DNA occasionally surfaced more prominently. It’s a place to relax and enjoy, an escape from the city’s bustle, where Niko Romito proves that luxury and refinement lie not in excess but in the ability to highlight the essence of certain elements.

Between the bar and the table, dishes and wines, stories and flavors, every moment seemed calculated to remind us why Italian cuisine is a warm embrace disguised as a meal. We left certain that sometimes the most incredible luxury is finding refuge and authenticity in the simplicity of a meal.

For “discomfort,” lessons, and encounters that completely shake the foundations of our culinary vision, the right destination is Reale! But that’s for another time. Here, the motto was different: relax, enjoy, and leave the drama for Italian cinema!

Prices from 100€ (without wines)
Bvlgari Hotel Roma – Piazza Augusto Imperatore, 10, Rome

Photos: Flavors & Senses e *D.R.
Text: João Oliveira
Versão Português
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