Reale: The Genius of Minimalism

What happens when a restaurant aims not only to satisfy your hunger but also to change how you perceive the World? This question led me to Reale, where each dish serves as a lesson about the essence of food and life. In this establishment, haute cuisine isn’t defined by excess but rather by the purity of flavors that challenge and inspire you.

Located 160 km from Rome, amidst the bucolic landscapes of Abruzzo, lies Reale, a restaurant that not only boasts three Michelin stars and the 19th position on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2024 but also carries its own philosophy that redefines the concept of fine dining.

Minimalism in haute cuisine isn’t new, but the enigmatic Niko Romito has elevated it to an almost philosophical level. While some chefs explore fermentation, sustainability, or letting the product shine as the sole star of the dish, Romito goes beyond all that: here, the technique isn’t the end goal but the means to tell a story, deconstructing each ingredient and extracting its essence.

Niko and Cristiana write a manifesto against excess at Reale, proving that true complexity lies in well-executed simplicity.

The Unlikely Journey of Chef Niko Romito

Niko Romito’s trajectory is as unique as the dishes he creates. Native from Abruzzo, he left behind a potential career in finance when fate intervened unexpectedly: with his father’s illness and subsequent passing, Niko and his sister Cristiana were forced to take over the family restaurant—a modest space that, at the time, operated as a pastry shop-trattoria.

Niko didn’t follow the traditional path. With no formal culinary training but an innate passion for the flavors of Abruzzo, he embarked on a self-taught journey that transformed his life and the essence of Reale. Every dish he creates reflects this relentless pursuit of authenticity. Through trial and error, the chef dove headfirst into an endless research process, experimenting with innovative techniques and challenging tradition to extract the maximum from each ingredient. This labor, coupled with an almost mythical determination, allowed him to surprisingly reinvent the cuisine as we know it, elevating the art of minimalism and the purity of flavors to a nearly transcendent level.

In 2007, just seven years after taking over the restaurant, Niko Romito saw Reale earn its first Michelin star; two years later, excellence was recognized again, culminating in 2013 with the coveted third star. But the chef’s journey goes far beyond recognition in guides and rankings: it’s a true philosophy, where each dish is the result of a meticulous process of “verticality”—exploring the multiple facets of a single ingredient, from the pure extraction of its juices to the extreme transformation of its textures, creating a cohesive, personal, and unmistakable culinary narrative.

His vision, which combines apparent simplicity with hidden complexity, overflows in every creation and inspires those who cross paths with him, whether it’s the future generations of chefs who pass through his Academy or the customers who make the journey to Reale.

Intense Minimalism

While the trend among starred restaurants is to impress with complexity and exuberance, Reale takes the opposite path. A reflection of Niko and Cristiana’s philosophy, they found the perfect setting for their universe in a 15th-century monastery in Castel di Sangro. Here, minimalism reigns supreme. From the rooms with striking design pieces to the restaurant, which is almost stripped of adornments, the most striking presence is that of the Abruzzo region.

Abruzzo is not just the backdrop for Reale; it embodies its soul. This region, celebrated for its simple yet intense products, dramatically influences the chef’s philosophy. The deep connection to the land is evident, and Romito skillfully transforms humble ingredients into culinary masterpieces. The region is a co-protagonist in this narrative, enhancing the dining experience. One thing we can’t criticize is their unwavering authenticity. Every detail at Casadonna Reale reflects this philosophy, showcasing discreet luxury that eliminates the unnecessary and encourages us to focus on what truly matters.

“True luxury in gastronomy isn’t about ostentation, but about absolute refinement, the mastery of the essential.”

The Journey Begins

After a reception featuring champagne, negronis, and the warm ambiance of a centuries-old fireplace, we explored the cellar where Gianni Sinesi lovingly cares for the hundreds of bottles tasked with the challenging mission of complementing Niko’s cuisine. As a sommelier whose career is closely linked to the restaurant itself, his dedication to this “cause” is rare in today’s World. This commitment is evident not only in the wine list but also in the carefully curated pairing proposals.

The distinction at the table is evident, and the reception does not involve canapés or trendy molds designed for Instagram. Instead, the experience begins almost poetically with a Tuscan Kale Infusion. Utilizing a technique that avoids water use, the leaves are quickly steamed, allowing their juices—enriched with ginger and a hint of chili—to be released nearly ritualistically.

Here, the execution is so precise that each drop has been distilled with the patience of a modern alchemist. This introduction prepares the palate for the sequence of emotions to follow and clarifies that Romito is intent on challenging the conventions of haute cuisine.

The Broccoli Leaf is a masterpiece of simplicity. Cooked with surgical precision to the perfect level of saltiness, the leaf melts in your mouth, releasing an earthy flavor elevated by a vibrant broccoli sauce, olive oil, and a rich touch of anise. It’s a dish that makes you question: how can something so simple be so memorable? How can technique transform a modest, often discarded vegetable into the protagonist of a sensory narrative?

The journey continues with another iconic dish from the chef, the Gratinéed Cauliflower, which has been making history since 2017. The cooking process involves a meticulous transformation of the vegetable’s texture and flavor into two distinct points: the glazed sauce and the roasted cauliflower. This duality—the softness of a purée and the firmness of lightly toasted cauliflower—demonstrates how the technique can shape flavors and textures. It clearly shows that this kitchen treats every vegetable with reverential respect.

Artisanal Bread: A Tribute to the Past and Evolution

 

As a simple interlude, the bread deserves a solid spotlight on its own, especially since it’s one of the themes Niko has clung to in developing his projects beyond Reale. The first, made with traditional Solina and Saragolla flours, followed by a seemingly more “common” einkorn bread, reinforces the commitment to authenticity and connection to roots. Here, what seems like a mere accompaniment gains an almost sacred status, reminding us of the tradition of bread on the table while simultaneously inserting itself into a contemporary and experimental narrative—no butter, no olive oil, just the delicate flavor of the bread in a solo performance.

Beetroot, American Grape, and Wild Rockey dish. The beetroot, subjected to a double cooking process—first cut in half and then thinly sliced for a pass over the Josper grill—reveals layers of flavor that intertwine with the surprising sweetness of American grapes (which brought back childhood memories) and the spicy freshness of the rocket. Each bite is a delightful surprise, a dance of flavors that may initially seem contradictory. However, upon tasting, it reveals the harmony of a philosophy that embraces the paradox of sweetness and bitterness.

Next, we experience the application of smoke as a technique, in this case, with the Trout, Bay Leaf, and Almond. It is one of the most memorable dishes of the meal and likely the entire year of 2024. The trout, lightly smoked and then refrigerated before passing over the coals, has a delicate texture that almost seems raw. The almond sauce, with extracts of thyme and bay leaf, adds a layer of complexity that transports us to a rustic kitchen but with a touch of modern sophistication.

The Veal Tongue with White Truffle, Lentils, and Hazelnut was, without a doubt, one of the highlights of the evening. The tongue, slowly cooked to achieve a sublime tenderness, contrasts with the velvety hazelnuts, the texture of the lentils, and, of course, the intoxicating aroma of white truffle. Here, the interplay of textures and flavors is a genuine invitation to introspection—a challenge to the palate that initially seems under-salted. Still, with each bite, the notes come together on the palate and in the mind, and everything makes more sense this way.

From here, creativity manifested itself even more on various levels. The Pasta with Savoy Cabbage and Horseradish surprises with the complexity hidden in simplicity. Different preparations of the cabbage—a broth obtained from grilled cabbage, a fermented version, and a topping—intertwine with the pasta, which absorbs the broth as it finishes cooking. The dish is finished with the spicy notes of grated horseradish, mimicking the usual Parmigiano. In tasting, we alternated between pasta and broth, combining comfort and sensory challenge.

The Pigeon with Pistachio is lightly grilled on the Josper, and its preparation culminates with a gel made from the pigeon’s broth, accompanied by a highly concentrated pistachio paste that adds a creamy and unexpected texture. A dish that once again demonstrates minimalism in its purest form, like an artistic installation designed to challenge us. The meat and accompaniments are provocatively flawless!

We continue on an even bolder journey through the universe of pairings with the Celery, Olive, Soy, and Vermouth, which once again showcases Niko’s guiding thread: various preparations of celery combined with black olive water, a soy milk and olive oil emulsion, and a final touch of vermouth. It’s a dish that doesn’t settle for the obvious and forces us to rethink the relationship between ingredients, in my case, even more intensely, given my usual aversion to celery, which I had to surrender to here.

Homage to Roots

In the most significant expression of tradition and respect for local identity, the Sheep’s Milk Ricotta Ravioli arrives at the table as an ode to the Abruzzo region. Intensely and almost explosively filled with sheep’s milk ricotta from the area, specifically from producer Gregorio Rotolo, these ravioli were delicately glazed with water infused with mint and black pepper. It is a dish that, while appearing simple, reveals a depth of flavor that can only be achieved through the quality of the ingredients and the mastery of execution. It was delicious!

No less intriguing is the Roasted Endive, previously immersed in an extract of raw potato and then taken to the oven for a transformation that makes it simultaneously earthy, crunchy, and sublime, thanks to its intense reduction.

Next, the Spaghettone with Broccoli Rabe and Lemon, a dish for future memory that appears as a challenge to apparent simplicity: four distinct preparations of broccoli rabe, interwoven with the vibrant touch of a roasted lemon zest powder, revealing a complexity that goes beyond the surface. A hymn of emotions and sensations, with the vibrant bitterness accompanying the entire meal reaching its peak here, combined with the lightness of lemon, culminating in what began as a difficult taste and ending with a desire for more.

We conclude the savory chapter of this journey into the “Reale” universe with the Abruzzo Lamb, once again lightly grilled over charcoal, receiving a singular and sweet infusion of sheep’s milk, herbs, and cinnamon, accompanied by lettuce worked with a sauce based on lettuce and sheep’s milk. Another ode to experimentation without losing the connection to the land and the sense of the entire menu, where the sumptuousness of the small lamb and the interplay of sweetness and acidity stood out.

To close with a bang, the dessert Chestnut, Apple, Meringue, and White Truffle shows that even dessert can be a symphony of contrasts—thin and crunchy meringues, chestnut mousse, jelly and cubes of apple, lightly whipped cream, roasted chestnuts, and the intoxicating touch of white truffle. It feels as if Mont Blanc had been reconstructed, losing its sweetness while gaining the right to express itself through every element of its composition. Light and essential, it perfectly concludes a long meal.

And, as if that weren’t enough, much like the appetizers, the petit fours also stray from the international register, paying homage to the land, the people, and their essential flavors. Pecorino cheese from the region, persimmon, and Niko Romito’s Panettone for a final impression of tradition and boldness.

The Mastery of Bitterness

In a world where bitterness is often softened or eliminated, Niko Romito embraces it as a distinct signature. Bitterness is explored with a rare depth, from the initial black kale infusion to the potent spaghettone with broccoli rabe. Romito believes bitterness adds complexity and depth, challenging the palate to rediscover a frequently neglected dimension. This approach sets Reale apart and challenges conventions while influencing a new generation of chefs to look at each ingredient in new dimensions.

The Service

A visit to Reale transcends mere tasting; it’s a carefully orchestrated symphony where every element plays a crucial role. Under the direction of Cristiana Romito, the service stands out for its fluidity and authenticity. The knowledgeable and empowered team interacts with guests naturally and engagingly, avoiding rehearsed and rigid scripts. This humanized approach creates a welcoming atmosphere where professionalism blends with the individual personality of each team member.

The Wines

The wines and their role in pairing are another fundamental pillar of this experience. Steering clear of the conventional, the wine selections are meticulously chosen by Gianni Sinesi to complement Niko Romito’s challenging dishes. Each combination enhances and balances the flavors, creating a perfect synergy between food and wine. For example, the start with the Amaro Erbe a Mare from Mistico Speziale, filled with herbal notes, harmonized sublimely with the broccoli leaf. At the same time, the Campi Flegrei Piedrosso 2010 from Contrada Salandra masterfully accompanied the cauliflower. Without showcasing grand labels or particularly unforgettable wines, these choices reflect a deep understanding of the interactions between wine and gastronomy, elevating the meal.

Final Thoughts

Some experiences knock you off your feet, deconstructing certainties you carry to the table. This was one of those moments. Dishes that seemed innocent—almost unpretentious—revealed themselves as true sensory labyrinths: perfectly calculated textures, flavor contrasts that played with memory, and invisible yet surgically precise techniques. Eating isn’t just a mechanical act. It’s a dialogue where the chef speaks through the dishes, and the diner responds with looks, memories, and sensations. At this dinner, that dialogue was more intense than I imagined; it was gastronomically transcendent.

A restaurant that isn’t content with the predictable. Instead, it goes beyond the obvious and provokes reflection: are we genuinely exploring the essence of food? Do we need all the ostentation we usually place on the table? Can technique, in fact, elevate the simple to an emotional level? Reale answers affirmatively, inviting us to rethink our relationship with food, to value the rigor of execution, and to recognize that, in simplicity, lies a challenging, singular, and unforgettable complexity. Every dish, every flavor, every texture is a lesson about the essence of food and life.

We encounter the proposal of a restless and indomitable spirit that seeks to shatter established norms; more than stars or titles, this almost spiritual vision leads us to traverse the mountains of Abruzzo to reach Casadonna—that, and the breakfast! The unforgettable breakfast without which no experience is complete.

Some meals are left on the plate, while others linger in our memories. This was one of those memorable experiences, not only because of the bold flavors but also because it transported me away from the ordinary, immersing me in a state of sensory overload. Ultimately, there’s no greater compliment than the desire to return—not just to the restaurant, but to the feelings it evoked.