Cavalariça Évora: Where Alentejo Whispers to The World

 

In the height of the Alentejo summer, with the sun gilding the plains and the warm breeze whispering ancient stories, we found ourselves in Évora, a “museum city” of cobbled streets and memories that echo in its whitewashed walls. Our holiday promised rest and gastronomic discoveries, and so, on a starry night with an inviting climate, we set out to cross the doors of the Palace of the Dukes of Cadaval. But instead of past celebrations worthy of princesses and heirs, we celebrated the contemporary proposal of Cavalariça Évora.

A Space That Breathes History

Here, we step on stone floors polished by time. The outdoor terrace, with its trees and fountains in the ample exterior, contrasts with the high ceilings and robust walls that have witnessed centuries of stories. Yet, there is something new here – vibrant murals by Esther Mahlangu that speak of distant lands, an almost theatrical light that dances over rustic wooden tables, and an atmosphere reminiscent of Andalusia and Morocco. The contrast is deliberate, nearly provocative: different cultures do not compete; they conspire and create!

We take our seats. The atmosphere is unpretentious yet carefully planned; each element seems to have been placed with purpose, like ingredients in a complex recipe. It is not minimalism; it is essentialism. Like the modern table lamp that saved my night – photographically speaking, of course!

The Artisans of Flavor

As is customary in these gastronomic chronicles, between our visit and the publication of this text, time – always relentless – has brought changes. Bruno Caseiro, the chef who conceived and gave soul to the Cavalariça concept, signed the menus, and defined the culinary identity of these spaces until very recently, is no longer at the group’s helm. However, everything we narrate here unmistakably stems from his creative universe, from his vision that, despite a late start, traversed renowned kitchens such as those of Belcanto, O Viajante, Chiltern Firehouse, and Taberna do Mercado alongside Nuno Mendes.

During our visit, Catalina Viveros was already leading the kitchen at Cavalariça Évora, imprinting, alongside Bruno Caseiro, her global perspective on the Alentejo matrix and its products. The Chilean chef, now assuming the group’s leadership, has managed to preserve the essence of the unpretentious approach and the deep respect for ingredients that characterize the original philosophy while adding nuances that reflect her gastronomic journey.

 

It is no surprise that in 2025, Cavalariça Évora was recognized as a recommended restaurant in the prestigious Michelin Guide Portugal.

The Gastronomic Narrative

The bread arrives – Alentejo bread and rye cornbread – made in-house and accompanied by fermented butter that melts slowly and one of the best extra virgin olive oils produced in Portugal, which speaks for itself. The crispy sourdough toasts were a pleasant surprise in terms of texture; however, the bread and rye cornbread lacked the lightness we expected, being too dense and dry for an Alentejo bread. A curious contrast in a land where bread is almost a religion and with a chef who likes to highlight the bread he produces. Indeed, it was probably just an off day for the Cavalariça oven.

The cured Alentejo meats and cheeses are not mere appetizers; they are a cartography of local producers, with a clear statement that “when the product is good, best not to tamper with it”. Thus, they bring a touch of tradition and simplicity to a menu filled with nuances and distinct techniques.

As empanadas de borrego são pequenos tesouros dourados que escondem um interior suculento, uma viagem pela herança cultural da chef, que, nesta representação alentejana do clássico chileno, eleva-o com um molho verde de algas que traz o mar para o interior alentejano – uma provocação deliciosa aos mais puristas.

The lamb empanadas are tiny golden treasures hiding a succulent interior. They are a journey through the chef’s cultural representation of the Chilean classic with a green seaweed sauce that brings the sea into the Alentejo interior— heritage, which elevates this Aa delicious provocation to the purists.

 

The vegetable tempura appears as a Japanese haiku interpreted with an Alentejo accent – green beans, kale, and courgette in crispy garments of the highest technical level, which, dipped in a citrusy lemon and coriander dip, cut through the frying with precision and freshness.

 

The tortilla from Alentejo is a familiar embrace, an exquisite representation of that classic from “nuestros hermanos,” made with Alentejo products: potatoes, eggs, and onions, shining on a stage filled with more dazzling and appealing stars.

Meanwhile, the tuna carpaccio with tonnato sauce and mizunas is a journey, a dialogue between cultures representing the creative universe through which Bruno has been shaped. Fantastic flavor reinforcement of the tuna with the tonnato sauce, the contrast of textures, the slight acidity, and the subtle sweetness of the fruit that appeared.

 

The beef tartare with smoked mayonnaise is a slight reinterpretation of the traditional combination, technically well-executed, with a “do-it-yourself” touch in mixing the ingredients and served with excellent Alentejo bread toasts. Good, but without the distinct and surprising touch of other dishes.

The Decisive Moments

The sautéed squid was the climax of this experience. Perfect in texture—tender yet firm—it finds a worthy companion in the salt-baked new potatoes. The smoked cuttlefish ink sauce is the shadow that highlights the light, deep, almost primordial, while the contemporary creamed greens bring earthy notes to the equation. This dish is truly exceptional; it proudly showcases its roots while also transcending them.

 

The wild fish dish sails in purer waters, relying on the freshness of the fish and impeccable execution. The mussel pil-pil is the wave that carries and binds it, perfectly salted and unctuous, while the fennel notes take us traveling to other places— perfect doneness of the fish, with the unmistakable mussel flavor.

 

The Alentejo pork neck, accompanied by apple and smoked parsnip, was succulent and flavorful, impeccable in texture and sauce. The apple and smoked parsnip served as the counterpoint and echo, sweetness and depth, in a harmonious marriage. The triple-fried fries were a necessary indulgence, especially for those dining with a child, a moment of pure and costly indulgence in a menu of serious intentions. Excellent, but pricey for the portion presented!

The desserts are not mere epilogues but necessary and obligatory conclusions, demonstrating that they receive the same attention as the main courses. The citrus roulade with chamomile and honey ice cream is a balanced equation of acidity and sweetness, with well-structured elements that combine sophistication and comfort. It seemingly reinterprets the classic combination of orange, olive oil, and honey.

The raspberry sorbet with blueberries in different preparations and purple basil turned out to be much more than expected. It was fresh, light, sweet, and acidic, just enough, a finale to my liking, closing the meal with a golden key. There was even time for some delicate Évora “queijadas” (I would have eaten a dozen if I could)!

The Humanity of Service

O serviço merece capítulo próprio. Não foi apenas eficiente, numa noite de serviço calmo, foi humano. A equipa move-se com propósito e calor, antecipando necessidades e propondo soluções. Algo visível sobretudo quando nos sentamos com uma criança à mesa, à qual deram uma atenção que foi além do protocolo – genuína, quase familiar. Num mundo em que muitos restaurantes se esquecem de que hospitalidade não é sobre servir pessoas ou paladares, a equipa do Cavalariça lembrou-nos porque saímos de casa para jantar.

Service deserves its own chapter. It was not just efficient on a quiet service night; it was human. The team moves with purpose and warmth, anticipating needs and proposing solutions. Something particularly touching when dining with a child at the table, to whom they gave attention that went beyond protocol – genuine, almost familiar. In a world where many restaurants forget that hospitality is not about serving people or palates, the Cavalariça team reminded us why we go out to dine.

Final Thoughts

Cavalariça Évora is not just another restaurant in Évora. It is where Alentejo, with all its stubbornness and ancestral wisdom, converses with the modern world without losing its accent. We left that night under Évora’s starry sky, feeling like we had participated, not in a palace celebration, but in a demonstration of endless possibilities. A demonstration that tradition and innovation are not adversaries.

The night I wrote this text, I discovered that Bruno Caseiro, one of the architects behind Cavalariça, was leaving. Such are the stories of gastronomy – ephemeral as a dish that empties, permanent as the taste that lingers in memory. The recognition from the Michelin Guide Portugal arrives at this crossroads of times, a testament to the journey taken.

Now, with Catalina Viveros flying solo at the helm, Cavalariça faces the most difficult challenge in gastronomy: continuity through change. We hope the group maintains the same trajectory of uniqueness and authenticity – that rare ability to honor tradition without becoming trapped by it, to dialogue with the world without losing its Alentejo accent, and to create both intimate and surprising dishes.