Tua Madre – Where Italy speaks “alentejano”

Évora | Authentic Italian cuisine with products and soul from the Alentejo

A restaurant where authenticity is not proclaimed — it is lived

In the historic heart of Évora, where the Alentejo heat permeates the skin like an ancient perfume, a restaurant transcends labels: Tua Madre. Neither purely Italian nor typically Alentejan, this unique space is born from the perfect fusion of two gastronomic cultures, creating an experience where time slows down, and each flavor gains unexpected depth.

A place born from the passion between Italian chef Francesco Ogliari, a native of Crema, and Évora-born Marisa Tiago, partners in life and mission. And that complicity is felt in every detail — in the ingredients, the technique, the attitude, and the atmosphere.

The Kitchen as a Stage

With a background in theatre and experience in kitchens in Berlin and Lisbon, Francesco found his ultimate stage in the Alentejo. In Évora, with Marisa by his side, he created a kitchen that is as much his own as it is of the place where it was established.

The menu — or rather, the slate that replaces it — changes with the chef’s mood, the day’s inspiration, and above all, the land and its producers’ generosity. It is a living, ephemeral, and honest proposal that reflects the restaurant’s philosophy: to cook with seasonal ingredients, respecting both Italian tradition and the Alentejan territory that welcomes them.

Bread over the table

Dishes with memory, with truth, with flavor

Throughout the many visits we’ve made over the years, two common elements have always remained: the surprise of discovering new dishes and combinations, and the realization that some of our favorites that day were not on the menu. That’s part of life and discovery.

A selection of Alentejan pork cured cuts

 

Here, one always enjoyed tasting delicious bread, a sourdough interpretation of Alentejo, accompanied by one of the finest national olive oils, “Amor é cego,” and a refined pork, “butter.” Black pork charcuterie was never missing to whet the appetite among offerings from small regional producers, with highlights including the ham and lardo from Feito no Zambujal and even a pork tongue terrine that would surprise even the most skeptical of diners.

Tartare and aubergine. An improvavel combination

 

While sometimes we started more simply and traditionally, like a burrata complemented by seasonal ingredients, other times it was the grouper tartare with padrón-style peppers or the meat tartare with roasted eggplant and pine nuts that stole the spotlight—in fact, that veal tartare remains memorable to this day for its depth and balance of flavor in a truly unexpected combination.

A very different Cacio & Pepe

Then the Pasta arrives. This is where the poetry begins.

Selecting a few: the torchietti with lamb ragù and purslane — a dish where Alentejan rusticity embraces with technical precision the density of Italian tradition — was hijacked by our 3-year-old daughter. A dish that perfectly balances the intensity of the meat with the subtle acidity of wild herbs, creating a harmony of two culinary worlds.

torchietti with lamb ragù and purslane

The agnolotti filled with goat cheese, chard, and fermented butter could be served in any Michelin-starred restaurant, having as much refinement as it has simplicity and comfort. Here, Francesco shows great technical mastery: the Pasta, cooked to perfection, encases a creamy filling that melts elegantly upon the first touch with the palate.

agnoletti recheados com queijo de cabra, acelgas e manteiga fermentada
agnolotti filled with goat cheese, chard, and fermented butter

The classic carbonara could not be left out of this selection, made as it should be, with Alentejan ingredients, lightly crispy, with a creamy and enveloping sauce that delivers the perfect texture, so often underestimated — a dish that shines effortlessly.

Pasta, grão de bico, mexilhão e buttarga
pasta with mussels, bottarga, and chickpeas

The tagliatelle al ragù, which our daughter devours in double portions if allowed, made with all the hallmarks of someone with a reputation and tradition to uphold.

And also: a bold pasta with mussels, bottarga, and chickpeas in a daring and memorable combination.

red prawn rice with lardo

But Francesco’s cuisine is not just about Pasta — the red prawn rice with lardo is perhaps one of his most striking dishes — a dish where sea and land fuse in a dance of flavor: rich and unmistakable. Or even a pork chop, well-prepared to highlight the nobility of a product raised with respect, time, and love.

For dessert, two stars: the chocolate mousse with olive oil and fleur de sel and the rabanada (Portuguese French toast). The latter, made with respect and artistry, could make any brotherhood member proud.

Chocolate mousse

 

If the kitchen resonates with passion, the wine selection follows suit. Marisa curates the wine list, highlighting small producers and low-intervention wines. Far from easy trends, proposals reflect a conscious selection coherent with the house’s cuisine. Our table always had happy surprises, like the sparkling Tubarão from Ricardo Garrido’s rare “masseiras” – saline, fresh, and fun. Or the white wines from the Italian Foradori, in a beautiful dialogue between terroirs and intentions.

The beautiful pork cutlet

 

In a country where Italian restaurants abound but few transcend the predictable, Tua Madre stands out by not making concessions to convenience or stereotypes. While many establishments in Lisbon and Porto compete for the spotlight with sophisticated proposals, this little treasure in Évora wins hearts through honesty and coherence — proving not only the similarities between Italian cuisine, namely Tuscan, and Alentejan, but also that true innovation can happen far from the big centers, through a genuine dialogue between technique, cultures, and ingredients, without pretensions or false storytelling.

Final Thoughts

Tua Madre is one of those rare places where everything seems to happen effortlessly — but clearly, everything was carefully thought out. The kitchen is an expression of identity, and the ingredients are treated with the reverence they deserve. Where there is no need to impress with names, deconstructions, or dishes served in unidentifiable objects. The food arrives simple, right, and good — with the luxury of well-done simplicity, detailed care, and the truth in every ingredient.

It is essential for everyone—whether you cook, eat, or simply appreciate flavors. For those searching for authenticity in a dish, it serves as a sanctuary, a place where deep flavors reign without pretense. If you’ve ever grumbled about lacking the right kitchen tools or high-tech equipment, this is proof that simplicity is often sufficient. And for anyone who believes they are too discerning to be amazed… prepare to swallow your pride!

No, Tua Madre is not an Italian, nor an Alentejan. It is a singular space, born from a true love story — between Francesco and Marisa, between Italy and Alentejo, between tradition and intuition.

It is, without a shadow of a doubt, one of the most beautiful, coherent, and delightfully unpretentious restaurants in Portugal. It is one of those rare places where we eat and, ultimately, feel like doing only one thing: returning.

Preços a partir de 35€ (sem vinhos)
Alcarcova de Baixo 55 – Évora

Photos: Flavors & Senses
Text: João Oliveira
Versão Português
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