Prati doesn’t appear in the more obvious guides to Rome, and the locals would rather it stayed that way. The lady with the shopping cart argues with the greengrocer over the price…
In the morning I was in Slovenia. There was frost on the hotel windows and breakfast — magnificent as it was — ended up carrying that particular flavour of things eaten without…
Many of my colleagues and friends insist that the best restaurants should be visited in summer, when the light is right, and the landscape reveals itself in full. I agree, in theory.…
Early last autumn, we set out to discover the Viceroy at Ombria Algarve. It was a time when the Algarve sun still caressed the skin with gentle warmth, and the golden light…
The road that winds from the Mosel valley up to Dreis is an exercise in shedding layers. We leave behind the vertiginous Riesling vineyards, castles worthy of postcards, river-cruise tourists and camper…
Rua de Mota Pinto has no tourists. Pinheiro Manso is not Foz or Baixa, there are no tiles to photograph, no amplified fado drifting through the air, no terraces selling questionable versions…
Therasia Resort — Vulcano, Aeolian Islands On the eve of my arrival in Sicily, I lost my watch. It stayed inside a black pocket, under the seat, forgotten the way we forget…
Therasia Resort — Vulcano, Aeolian Islands Vulcano is not an easy destination. There is no airport, no bridge, no shortcuts between journeys and mishaps, and my incursion began with a watch lost…
In 2020, Yoji Tokuyoshi returned his Michelin star, not as a provocative gesture, nor out of exhaustion or fear. After the pandemic, much had changed. His delivery project took on a life…