We arrived at Dominikanerbastei, an almost deserted street by the canal, shortly after midday. Time does not seem to have changed the area much, but today, more than ten years later, the…
Francisca fell asleep shortly after Vila Real. By the time she woke up, the river was already running alongside the road — silent and luminous between the vineyards. The Douro is one…
Prati doesn’t appear in the more obvious guides to Rome, and the locals would rather it stayed that way. The lady with the shopping cart argues with the greengrocer over the price…
In the morning I was in Slovenia. There was frost on the hotel windows and breakfast — magnificent as it was — ended up carrying that particular flavour of things eaten without…
Many of my colleagues and friends insist that the best restaurants should be visited in summer, when the light is right, and the landscape reveals itself in full. I agree, in theory.…
Early last autumn, we set out to discover the Viceroy at Ombria Algarve. It was a time when the Algarve sun still caressed the skin with gentle warmth, and the golden light…
The road that winds from the Mosel valley up to Dreis is an exercise in shedding layers. We leave behind the vertiginous Riesling vineyards, castles worthy of postcards, river-cruise tourists and camper…
Rua de Mota Pinto has no tourists. Pinheiro Manso is not Foz or Baixa, there are no tiles to photograph, no amplified fado drifting through the air, no terraces selling questionable versions…
Therasia Resort — Vulcano, Aeolian Islands On the eve of my arrival in Sicily, I lost my watch. It stayed inside a black pocket, under the seat, forgotten the way we forget…