Sintra: where time stops, but stories go on
Sintra carries a unique aura, like a veil of mystery and romance cloaks on every corner. It’s a town where time seems to have stopped, yet the stories continue to unfold like an epic, blending fairy tales, tragedies, and unfinished dreams. Everything here breathes magic—from the mist-shrouded hills to the palaces guarding secrets and promises from past times.
Sintra is undeniably the most mysterious place in Portugal and, partly because of that, one of the most beautiful.
It had been years since I last visited Sintra, and this trip had a particular purpose: to introduce this enchanting setting to Francisca, who had yet to discover one of my favorite places. So, on a warm, luminous summer day, we decided to explore Sintra and enjoy a memorable experience at the Penha Longa Resort, a hotel that had long been on my list.
First impressions: arriving at the retreat
We arrived at Penha Longa after a day of adventures at Quinta da Regaleira, and we already needed a break. The welcome couldn’t have been more inviting: genuine smiles, a glass of sparkling wine for us, and a special juice for Francisca served in a champagne glass—a simple touch that made her feel extra special!
As soon as you pass through the gates, it’s clear that Penha Longa is not just a hotel but a journey through time. The building, surrounded by the mystical landscape of Sintra’s mountains, exudes elegance and history—from the 14th-century monastery to the gardens, fountains, and the 16th-century palace, transporting us to a tale worthy of kings and queens with a happy ending!
It’s a dream for both hospitality enthusiasts and golf lovers, thanks to its 27-hole course, making it one of the most distinctive in the country.
To celebrate its 30th anniversary, Penha Longa, under the Ritz-Carlton brand, added four three-bedroom family apartments and renovated 187 of its 204 rooms and suites. These updates were designed by Goddard Littlefair, a London-based hospitality interior design studio.
The room: luxury and surprising details
We stayed in an Executive Suite, which is more than just a room—it’s a small home. Two bathrooms, two living rooms, a walk-in closet, a large balcony overlooking the golf course and pools, and, of course, a bedroom blending comfort and sophistication.
Waiting for Us was a true chocolate masterpiece created by The Chocolate by Penha Longa, led by one of Portugal’s most prominent chocolatiers, Francisco Siopa. It instantly won Francisca’s heart—and, I must confess, mine as well.
The hotel’s recent renovations brought a modern aesthetic while respecting the environment. Shades of green and beige harmonize with Ritz-Carlton’s signature blue, creating an atmosphere that reflects the serenity, peace, and fullness the Sintra Natural Park brings to the hotel.
Gastronomy: flavors for every palate!
Penha Longa is a paradise for food lovers, boasting seven restaurants to suit every taste. From signature cocktails at B Lounge in the lobby bar to light bites at AQUA by the pool, ideal for a sunny day spent by the hotel’s remarkable pools.
Mercatto, the family-favorite Italian restaurant, and the Michelin-starred LAB by Sergi Arola and Midori elevate dining to an art form. These are complemented by Arola and Spices, with Mediterranean and Asian-inspired menus.
Our standout experiences were a delightful lunch at Arola and an exceptional Michelin-starred dinner at Midori—but I’ll let João share more about those in other articles.
Every restaurant celebrates culinary diversity, with influences spanning from the Mediterranean to Asia. The impeccable attention to detail, a hallmark of Ritz-Carlton service, turns every meal into an unforgettable experience.
Services: A World to Discover
With 220 hectares to explore, Penha Longa is much more than a hotel; it’s a world of its own. For children, it’s paradise: a giant outdoor playground, a kids’ club with activities for all ages, and an indoor playroom near the restaurants with inflatables, table tennis, and drawing activities. The staff even dresses up as beloved characters to spread joy and treats throughout the hotel.
The Penha Longa Spa & Wellness, located in the former 16th-century royal lodgings from D. Manuel I, offers a luxurious retreat with Natura Bissé treatments, meditation areas surrounded by water, a garden, a jacuzzi, an outdoor pool, and seven treatment rooms—all rooted in Zen philosophy.
The fitness center features state-of-the-art equipment, and there’s an indoor pool. Outdoor, you’ll find two pools: a heated, family-friendly one, which became our afternoon favorite, and a quieter adults-only pool.
Throughout the hotel, there is something for every type of guest.
Daily, the attentive team serves water, fruit, and occasionally divine Berliners, which Francisca adored!
For those seeking other activities, hikes and unique trails throughout the property are another highlight, as is a walk through history, whether at the Monastery founded in the 14th century with its gardens and hidden corners or at the Nuncio’s Garden, a Renaissance-style space, admiring from the outside the convent church of São Jerónimo, which houses one of the country’s leading private tile collections. But don’t worry, the hotel’s reception provides a map with points of interest to make the tour easier.
Another highlight is the two award-winning golf courses with 27 holes.
For those planning events, the hotel offers catering services for all kinds of events, from weddings to birthdays and professional meetings. This service can occur in the resort’s internal and external areas, including historic spaces like the Monastery or other venues. The hotel also boasts 25 meeting rooms that can host up to 600 people.
The services at Penha Longa leave no room for doubt: here, the guest is the protagonist of a story where comfort and exclusivity set the pace. The team, always attentive, goes beyond expectations, ensuring that every guest – young or old – feels special.
Service that makes a difference
Genuine smiles, attentive looks, and a willingness to go beyond what’s expected are constant traits of the Penha Longa team. They seem to know us every time they greet us with personalized suggestions and a level of care that exceeds the basics.
This is even more evident when traveling with children.
Francisca, for example, had a minor incident by the pool, but the care from the team was impressive. Every day, they asked how she was doing, and the attention with which they handled the situation touched us deeply.
Conclusion
Penha Longa is much more than just a hotel – it’s an invitation to luxury and serenity.
As soon as you cross the gates of this historic property, the feeling is that time slows down. Every detail, from the bucolic landscape to the reception, is meticulously thought out to turn the stay into a memorable experience.
Rooms from 230€
Estrada da Lagoa Azul, Linho, Quinta da Penha Longa – Sintra, Portugal