Midori – Harmony in the Clash of Cultures

In one of the most bucolic corners of the Penha Longa Resort, a small dining room holds the secrets of an unexpected fusion — Japanese heritage reinvented with a Portuguese soul. Midori presents itself as a point of convergence, a bridge between Portugal and Japan, shaped by more than 20 years of dedication to the Land of the Rising Sun gastronomy.

Since its inception, Midori has consistently aimed to explore the balance between Japanese tradition and local ingredients. However, this vision truly became its flagship under the leadership of Chef Pedro Almeida. This vision brought consistency and depth to the restaurant’s concept, culminating in the coveted Michelin star. With the departure of Pedro Almeida (who remains as a consultant chef), the responsibility of continuing this legacy has been entrusted to the young chef Tiago Santos, who took over the kitchen in early 2023.

Tiago has worked on various projects, including Belcanto and other projects by chef José Avillez, before joining Penha Longa. His approach has been to maintain the work already done while increasingly deepening the fusion of cultures and celebrating local ingredients. For this, the menu includes two tasting menus: the Kiri, with 7 moments, and the Yama, with 9 — the one we chose.

A minimalist room

Upon entering, the room, lit by natural light streaming through large windows, reflects a balance between the modern and the bucolic. The black tables contrast with the lush greenery of the outdoor landscape, creating an environment that invites contemplation and the enjoyment of a carefully choreographed meal.

The room, with only 18 seats, reinforces the idea of exclusivity. There are no external distractions — the entrance is through a “secret” door that leads us to a spacious and calm room marked by black tables, the sushi counter, and a mural representing the restaurant’s cultural proposal.

The décor is modern minimalist, although it would benefit from a renovation, replacing tones and materials to make it more connected to nature and the surrounding environment that flows through the large windows.

The experience on the plate

At the table, we were quickly welcomed with a flute of Kompassus Brut Nature Blanc des Noirs, a classic from Bairrada, which set the stage for the moment of Hassun — the usual snacks.

A great start, with all the snacks performing their role well, with obvious highlights being the Crab and its combination of flavors and textures and the Tori Karaage, made from confit chicken wings, fried and served with crispy chicken skin and aioli.

After a light and relaxed start, we moved into the first demonstration of how Midori merges its two cultural identities — Misoshiro of “Cozido à Portuguesa .” Something deeply comforting in the combination of miso soup made from the broth of the Portuguese “Cozido” and cabbage stuffed with all the usual ingredients of the classic Portuguese dish, all refreshed by an herbal touch of oil. It was as if the chef whispered two distinct memories with every spoonful!

For the wine pairing, sommelier Eveline Borges chose a Horácio Simões Reserva white 2021, a wine with excellent volume and a pronounced wood presence, which supported the richer notes of the dish.

Entering the more Japanese-focused dishes, we quickly realized the emphasis was on the product and good cuts. The first sashimi served was Smoked Hamachi with pine, finished with parsnip purée and pine nuts, while the essence of pine floated on dry ice. This last detail, though subtle, made all the difference in the sensory experience, combining raw fish with the Sintra mountain range in an improbable but balanced combination.

Next came one of the finest fish from our coast, the red mullet sashimi, served with a herb salad and miso vinaigrette with roasted miso butter. Once again, the best of Western cuisine is beautifully combined with the simplicity and technical precision of Japanese cuisine. Very good!

After the excellent sashimi, we moved on to the Japanese Octopus Salad, Tako Su. A more straightforward dish that is far from simplistic, with octopus accompanied by different textures and elements of cucumber, scallions, and a purée of sweet potato from Aljezur. Not every dish needs to impress with grandeur; the simplicity of Tako Su demonstrates that delicacy has its place and can bring freshness before the more intense moments that follow.

We also enjoyed an excellent 2021 Alvarinho Sou, produced in a partnership between Mira do Ó and Quinta de Santiago.

With the next dish, the narrative changes tone, bringing contrasts that challenge the palate — Kabayaki eel with head cheese. This dish is perhaps the best example of the perfect union of cultures at Midori. On one side, we have the Japanese appreciation for eel, a dish often prepared in a sweet soy-based sauce, and on the other, the importance of pork to the Portuguese people, represented here by the head cheese. The eel is prepared in the traditional Japanese ‘kabayaki’ style, then served with the head cheese, creating a unique and delicious fusion dish.

At this moment, we realized the chef’s skill in balancing tradition and innovation, a fantastic land and sea combination that I wouldn’t tire of repeating throughout the year (Preferably with bread, as I’m a man who enjoys sustenance).

The pairing was also well executed with a 5-year-old Madeira Cossart Gordon Verdelho, whose acidity and restrained sweetness balanced the dish’s richness.

Nigiris are presented in two stages, with cuts that showcase technical mastery and toppings that surprise with their harmony of flavors. Since it wasn’t possible to serve the nigiri one by one by the master shokunin’s hand, the option was for two servings of three pieces. In addition to the well-crafted rice with aged vinegar, each fish gets a topping designed to marry or enhance the flavor, much more than for mere aesthetic refinement.

First, roasted tomato with olive oil and fresh wasabi, followed by John Dory with sunomono gel, lemon zest, and mirin, and finally, the daring squid nigiri with dashi and Port wine jelly, finished with dehydrated squid. It’s nice to see fusion without confusion, where the toppings are much more than mere aesthetic props but something that adds value to the tasting.

Of course, tuna could not be left out, and here it comes in three pieces from three different cuts, prepared in distinct ways. First, the smoked Akami with bay leaf and finished with muxama, followed by marinated chutoro and rosemary, and finally, the Otoro finished with bichotan and sea salt. Had we been sitting at the counter, the experience would have been even more special with the rice temperature at its ideal point.

For this stage, the pairing was with Sake – Chiyokotobuki Toraya, a good entry-level junmai sake that complemented the pieces well.

With the appetite now thoroughly awakened, we moved on to the main dishes, starting with Tuna with different textures of potato, caviar, and tuna jus. A rich, intensely flavored tuna sauce that harmonizes with the components, taking us into elevated comfort food thanks to the salinity of the caviar.

The experience culminates with a daring Beef Tongue with smoked eggplant purée and carrot purée, two types of tomato, and Kakuni sauce with beef jus. Kakuni is a dish usually made with pork belly, here substituted with a delicious beef tongue (how nice it would be to see more Michelin-starred restaurants taking risks with cuts of meat), simmered until nearly falling apart. The combination of ingredients also brought pleasant notes of sweetness and smoke, balanced by the acidity of the pickled tomato.

A lovely conclusion, with a glass of Quinta dos Carvalhais Touriga Nacional 2018, a balanced wine that reasonably reflects the grape variety from which it’s made.

As sobremesas chegam como uma despedida cuidadosamente ensaiada, deixando no ar uma nota de equilíbrio e ousadia que é difícil de ignorar. Um encerramento pela mão de Lara Figueiredo a chef de Pastelari, que continua a refeição com elevadas notas de risco, pondo as frutas ou o chocolate de lado e começando por uma sobremesa de Batata e miso. Batata de diferentes tipos e em diferentes texturas, caramelo de miso e um gelado de nata arredondado também ele com miso. Inesperado e a bom nível!

The desserts arrive as a carefully rehearsed farewell, leaving an air of balance and boldness that’s hard to ignore. A finale by Lara Figueiredo, the pastry chef, who continues the meal with bold notes, setting fruits or chocolate aside and beginning with a dessert of potato and miso. Different types and textures of potato, miso caramel, and cream ice cream that was also rounded with miso. Unexpected and very well done!

In some sort of an autumn prelude, we finish with Hachi, oats, and honey — various textures of oats, pollen crunch, and eucalyptus honey, in a well-symphonized and balanced sweetness. A great way to end!

A glass of sweet wine was essential with the desserts, and we enjoyed a Moscatel Roxo “Excellent” by Horácio Simões. It is one of the best representatives of the grape variety, with floral aromas, spice notes, and a long and delicate finish.

The meal concludes as it began, but this time with room for small sweet treats, including matcha cream, ginger and coconut mochi, yuzu, and raspberry spheres, and Transmontano olive oil gummies.

It’s impossible to complete the experience without noting the care taken in the service, with the menu delivered at the right pace, clear explanations, and technical precision balanced without excess or restraint. While well executed, the wine choices reflect a more conservative approach; unfortunately, this is similar to almost all fine dining in Portugal. This is a field where Midori can explore more boldness, including something like aged sakes, wines from other latitudes, or natural proposals that better dialogue with the complexity of the menu.

Final Thoughts

Midori, under the watchful eye of Chef Tiago Santos, carries the weight of a recent legacy but also holds the opportunity to reinvent itself. On this journey, the restaurant continues to navigate the balance between Japanese heritage and Portuguese ingredients, a challenge reflected not just in the storytelling but in every dish, whether through flawless technique or daring combinations.

Amid moments of brilliance—such as the eel kabayaki and the remarkable technical harmony of the nigiri—and others that are simpler and more restrained, the experience at Midori is, above all, a careful celebration of what the fusion of two gastronomic worlds can achieve. However, the dining room, still marked by a colder design, calls for a more natural touch that reflects the creative energy of the kitchen and the surrounding nature, often mirrored in the dishes.

Midori demonstrates the strength of well-executed simplicity while revealing its untapped potential to further enhance this harmony.

In the Portuguese fine dining scene, where conservatism in execution and ingredient choices often prevails, the restaurant has room to push boundaries, particularly in its wine pairings—an area yet to be fully explored.

Thus, Midori remains a stronghold of understated luxury and impeccable technique. Still, it is in the next phase, as Tiago Santos solidifies his signature, that we will discover how far this bridge between Japan and Portugal can take us.

This is a journey worth revisiting!