Many of my colleagues and friends insist that the best restaurants should be visited in summer, when the light is right, and the landscape reveals itself in full. I agree, in theory.…
Tag: michelin
Waldhotel Sonnora: The Last Dish
The road that winds from the Mosel valley up to Dreis is an exercise in shedding layers. We leave behind the vertiginous Riesling vineyards, castles worthy of postcards, river-cruise tourists and camper…
I Tenerumi: Davide Guidara’s Hanging Garden
Therasia Resort — Vulcano, Aeolian Islands On the eve of my arrival in Sicily, I lost my watch. It stayed inside a black pocket, under the seat, forgotten the way we forget…
Il Cappero: The “Time” of Vulcano
Therasia Resort — Vulcano, Aeolian Islands Vulcano is not an easy destination. There is no airport, no bridge, no shortcuts between journeys and mishaps, and my incursion began with a watch lost…
Moebius Sperimentale: Anarchy, Technique and a Star
June. Milan was simmering. I arrived on Via Cappellini just after seven. The air was thick — that Lombard heat that glues your shirt to your back the second you leave air…
CURA: A Star in Transition
Inheriting a Michelin star must feel a little like inheriting a house full of ghosts. Not malicious ghosts—just the kind that whistle softly, “this is how it used to be done.” Rodolfo…
Smoked Room Dubai: Fire in the Desert
The glass door opens. Smoke curls toward a mirrored ceiling, fourteen seats curve around an open flame, and, slack-jawed, I realize: Dani García knew how to export fire to the desert. The…
FZN: The Empire of Restraint
The Closed Door There’s a doorbell. Just a doorbell. In Dubai – a city that advertises everything in gold leaf and fifteen-metre-high letters – Björn Frantzén hid his restaurant behind an unmarked…
Dinner by Heston Blumenthal — Cooking History, Serving Surprise
There aren’t many restaurants that welcome you with a panoramic lift where a waterfall spills in slow motion — like a lush spoiler of what awaits above. But here we are, at…