Steirereck was born in 1970, the same year as Heinz Reitbauer, who would one day run it. He is exactly as old as the house he directs, proof of two histories that…
Tag: michelin
Konstantin Filippou: The Same Place, Eleven Years Later
We arrived at Dominikanerbastei, an almost deserted street by the canal, shortly after midday. Time does not seem to have changed the area much, but today, more than ten years later, the…
Pulejo: A new latin
Prati doesn’t appear in the more obvious guides to Rome, and the locals would rather it stayed that way. The lady with the shopping cart argues with the greengrocer over the price…
Milka: A Star in the Forest
Many of my colleagues and friends insist that the best restaurants should be visited in summer, when the light is right, and the landscape reveals itself in full. I agree, in theory.…
Waldhotel Sonnora: The Last Dish
The road that winds from the Mosel valley up to Dreis is an exercise in shedding layers. We leave behind the vertiginous Riesling vineyards, castles worthy of postcards, river-cruise tourists and camper…
I Tenerumi: Davide Guidara’s Hanging Garden
Therasia Resort — Vulcano, Aeolian Islands On the eve of my arrival in Sicily, I lost my watch. It stayed inside a black pocket, under the seat, forgotten the way we forget…
Il Cappero: The “Time” of Vulcano
Therasia Resort — Vulcano, Aeolian Islands Vulcano is not an easy destination. There is no airport, no bridge, no shortcuts between journeys and mishaps, and my incursion began with a watch lost…
Moebius Sperimentale: Anarchy, Technique and a Star
June. Milan was simmering. I arrived on Via Cappellini just after seven. The air was thick — that Lombard heat that glues your shirt to your back the second you leave air…
CURA: A Star in Transition
Inheriting a Michelin star must feel a little like inheriting a house full of ghosts. Not malicious ghosts—just the kind that whistle softly, “this is how it used to be done.” Rodolfo…