Esporão Wine Bar – Where the land is served in small portions

The Alentejo makes no apologies for its vastness. Neither does Esporão. On the same estate that houses the Michelin-starred restaurant of Carlos de Albuquerque Teixeira, there is an even more restrained and relaxed space, equally aligned with the values and philosophy that define the entire project: the Wine Bar.

A few weeks after we visit the gastronomic restaurant, we return, not only captivated by the culinary offerings but also by the entire orchestrated experience that guides the estate. Now, in its literal and symbolic shadow, we come back to meet its lighter sibling: an informal yet no less rigorous space.

Architecturally, the Wine Bar follows the same design logic as the main restaurant, a modest continuation of elegance and coherence, where restraint always speaks louder than excess. While the atmosphere is more relaxed, there is no lack of care, detail, and a menu crafted with the same level of commitment, albeit one that caters to a broader range of tastes and desires. The small room shares natural light with the estate’s shop, where one can find the complete selection of house wines, including rarities such as the Quinta do Ameal 2006 sparkling wine.

Under the direction of the same chef, Carlos de Albuquerque Teixeira, the Wine Bar is more than an annex. It is a philosophical extension of Esporão, adapted to a different rhythm and appetite. Here, no compromises are made for the ordinary, even when serving pasta or snacks—it’s about enjoying good food and eating well without fuss.

The Language of Sharing

The menu, designed for sharing, offers dishes that blend tradition and reinvention: scrambled eggs with “farinheira”, “peixinhos da horta” with tartar sauce, chicken pies, or pig’s trotters with coriander and sweet potato. But also vegetable snacks from the farm and freshwater fish dishes that are in tune with what’s served in the main kitchen.

We opted for the tasting menu because some conversations are better left in the chef’s hands, and we started as one should: with excellent house bread and a delicious roasted aubergine and courgette paste. A beginning marked by the kind of simplicity that demands perfection—vegetal and unctuous, prepping the palate and settling the stomach for what’s to come.

This was followed by a tomato salad that, despite its seemingly simple ingredients, showcased a perfect balance of flavors. The acidity of the tomatoes, the richness of the herb oil, the sweetness of the figs, the creaminess of the mozzarella from Ortodoxo, the freshness of the pesto, and the crunch of the nuts all came together beautifully. It evokes the feeling of a summer lunch, and while some dishes can transport you to another place, this one grounds you exactly where you are.

The homemade brioche filled with Iberian pork, apple remoulade, herbs, and pickles arrives as a love letter to indulgence—a sensation only achieved by eating with one’s hands. It is a dish where comfort and flavour meet, though I would prefer it filled with river crayfish in the style of an Alqueva “lobster roll.”

Then comes the night’s revelation: pasta made from yesterday’s bread, paired with pike perch and a crayfish sauce so rich and comforting that we could live inside it. A dish that shows creativity also stems from restraint, resourcefulness, and wisdom. This idea resonates with Massimo Bottura’s Food for Soul project, echoing the deepest Alentejo tradition, where old bread is reborn as a gesture of anti-waste and a celebration of essentials.

The meat arrived in the form of pork presa with roasted courgette and miso purée and a courgette salad—repetition as emphasis rather than laziness. The purée shone in flavour and texture—once again, the chef transformed the bland, basic courgette into something sublime; however, the presa, although cooked at a low temperature, turned out slightly dry. I admit I always prefer it rare and minimally cooked. Perhaps that’s why a fattier cut, such as the neck or knuckle, would make more sense here, especially in this more informal context.

The dessert could be seen as a variation on the iconic Abade de Priscos: a silky Port wine pudding accompanied by apple and pennyroyal ice cream, whose presence felt essential to balance the sweetness. Rich and unpretentious—a finish that mirrors the philosophy of the entire experience.

Beyond the kitchen, the service also reflects the language of Esporão, demonstrating that there is a team and an identity—here, more relaxed but not swayed by the shade of the cork oak. Various wines were tasted, from Ameal Solo Único 2023, to the 2017 Touriga Nacional, the DB30 red (a tribute to the 30 years spent by winemaker David Baverstock on the estate), and of course, a 10-Year old Tawny Port from Quinta dos Murças.

 

Final Thoughts

At Esporão, we find hospitality that understands its place—serious enough for those seeking communion with the estate’s philosophy, sufficiently relaxed for those that want to pair good wine with well-made, simple food that satisfies. Silence continues to season everything, and care does not diminish just because expectations do.

It was another excellent meal, proving not only Carlos’s cooking’s versatility but also the project’s overarching philosophy. The Wine Bar is one of those restaurants we wish we had next door, but which, in truth, could only exist here—rooted in the same soil that nourishes the vines and the animals brought to the table, forming part of the same conversation between land and plate that makes Alentejo more than geography—more than territory.

Some places can be transplanted. Others belong exactly where they are, serving the land in portions shaped to human appetite.

To go and return without fear of joy!