Le Du: An Immersive Journey into Chef Ton’s Thailand

When we think of Thailand, we envision a vibrant tapestry of colors, aromas, and flavors that fill its streets, markets, and temples—a sensory feast at every turn. Thankfully, the fine dining scene has also embraced this essence, moving away from European influences in favor of a more authentic identity, where Thai flavors take center stage as the true stars of the experience.

A fine example of this cultural statement is Le Du, which, under the direction of Chef Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn, has conquered a diverse array of international stages, challenging the world to rediscover Thailand. When we visited it ten years ago (see), Ton was still seeking the balance between Western techniques and the intensity of local ingredients; today, the experience is a pure and complete immersion into Thai terroir, interpreted with mastery and without filters. The name Le Du (despite the French accent, the name derives from the Thai word for “season”) is a promise of seasonality and product focus. This is exactly what the restaurant delivers: a deep, sensory journey through the country’s flavours and textures, revisited with modern technique and a deeply rooted perspective.

This dedication to Thai essence received its due recognition in 2023 when Le Du reached 1st place on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list – an achievement that reveals the maturation of the project and the solidity of Ton’s approach.

After admiring the recently redecorated dining room, where the ceiling is a labyrinth of glass tubes (I can only imagine the plight of those who clean them!), we’re guided to our table, where the illustrated menu sparks our curiosity.

The meal begins with a sequence of snacks. First, a velvety mousse of fermented fish with smoked barracuda, followed by a mushroom and curry tartlet with kaffir lime, offering lovely acidic notes. Next is a playful, visually reimagined instant noodle soup, and finally, a pork dumpling in a comforting broth – a warm and welcoming starter that hints at the chef’s technical precision and culinary intuition.

 

With our appetite whetted, we moved to the first course, which was also one of the most surprising: Cobia and Coconut. The raw fish arrives with slices of fresh coconut, citrus, and a coconut vinegar sorbet that brings acidity and freshness on par with a ceviche but with a distinctly Thai signature. The Champagne Vallée from Domaine Les Monts Fournois, primarily made from Pinot Noir, elegantly complements the dish, mirroring its structure and complexity.

Next, we enjoy the “Banana” Prawn with Beetroot and Sour Curry. Inspired by the traditional Kaeng som soup, Ton recreates this classic in a cold dish where the sour broth intertwines with the prawn’s sweetness and the earthy depth of beetroot. Paired with a Grewacke Sauvignon Blanc 2023, which, though not a grape or region I typically favour, adds tropical and citrus notes that enhance the experience.

Squid, Mussel, and Bone Marrow arrive in two parts. First, the squid, cooked in its ink with wagyu bone marrow, mussel pickle, and a crispy rice and krill element – a burst of textures and freshness with a delicate contrast of richness. In the second act, a comforting broth of dried squid and river fish with tamarind, where a squid and pork croquette completes the dish. The pairing with Rennersistas Intergalactic, an Austrian, lightly effervescent orange wine, provided balance and freshness.

Following is the Grouper with Lotus Root and Salted Fish, a dish where the fish was perfectly cooked, revealing a surprising harmony of flavours for a Western palate. The pairing, a Riversdale Estate Chardonnay 2021 from Tasmania, added the final touch, bringing complexity and acidity.

Le Du’s and perhaps Ton’s signature dish, Giant River Prawn with Rice, Shrimp Paste, and Pork Belly Jam – an extra you can add to the menu. It’s one of the most surprising courses for those less familiar with oriental flavours, largely thanks to the brilliant organic rice and its accompaniments, such as the pork belly jam. A clear example where, at times, the side steals the spotlight from the leading actor.

For the meat course, the menu features Thai Wagyu, which was served with watermelon and chili. This combination of textures and spices nicely balances the richness of the meat. While it may be the most conventional dish of the meal, it certainly makes an impact. It was paired with a 2019 Syrah from Brash Higgins, an organic vineyard that thrived in a particularly hot year. The wine is structured and has pronounced tannins. This dish brings a complex and profound conclusion to the savory section of the meal.

The meal concludes with a refreshing Thai basil sorbet, which prepares the palate for the main dessert: White Chocolate Mousse with Toasted Coconut, Betel Leaf, Lychee, and Peanut Crumble. This dish features subtle French techniques and surprises with a well-balanced fusion of flavors, avoiding the excessive sweetness often found in similar combinations. It closes the dining experience with a sense of lightness and elegance.

Paired with Château Pierre-Bise Les Rouannières, a 100% Chenin late harvest, the wine’s mineral notes perfectly balance the dessert’s sweetness.

For those who don’t drink alcohol, Le Du offers a pairing with a carefully curated selection of teas and infusions.

With the restaurant reserved for a group lunch, the service flowed pleasantly, allowing for more interactions and moments of sharing about each dish.

Final Thoughts
In 2014, Ton surprised us by incorporating Thai flavors into a more Westernized cuisine. By 2024, his approach has taken a complete 360º turn, increasingly embracing his roots and grounding his cooking in traditional Thai dishes and ingredients.

This experience prompts us to consider how a country’s cuisine can be reinvented while still retaining its essence, avoiding shortcuts or simple “deconstructions.” With each dish, Ton and his team showcase the potential of Thai gastronomy, skillfully reinterpreting it through a blend of tradition and modernity without ever losing its soul.

The tasting menu, with its play of textures, temperatures, and contrasts, captures the country’s spirit, transforming it into something new, accessible, and, at the same time, unexpected. Ton’s focus on local ingredients and producers, as well as the choice to keep the restaurant at a balanced price point compared to typical fine dining, reflects the attentive vision of a chef who sees in his cuisine more than a fusion of flavours and ingredients – he sees his voice and that of a Thailand that stands, strong and assured, on the world’s gastronomic stage, a voice of a country that asserts itself without the need for translation!