Sühring – Or how Germany conquered Asia

Bangkok. A city of contrasts, where the chaos of markets and the intense fragrance of the streets blend with the unexpected tranquility of culinary temples. Globally known for its authentic and affordable street food, the city has, in recent years, established itself as a fine dining destination, with high-end restaurant openings and significant praise in international guides.

Perhaps the most unique option is Sühring, a restaurant reproducing traditional German cuisine based on the family memories and recipes of twins Thomas and Mathias.

Although the twins were not unknown in the city’s culinary scene, having worked in Italy and the Netherlands, they found their place in Bangkok. They took over the leadership of Mezzaluna, one of the reference restaurants in the iconic Lebua Tower. However, with Sühring, the brothers found the opportunity to express their personal and technical vision of German cuisine.

Located in a charming 1970s house in a residential neighborhood away from the urban chaos, Sühring exudes serenity. Upon crossing its gates, one enters a welcoming and luxurious atmosphere, where Nordic design mingles with the lush green of the gardens. Here, Bangkok’s frenetic rhythm seems to fade, giving way to an intimate and carefully orchestrated experience.

The dining room where we were seated, with glass walls and wood-and-metal décor, perfectly balances comfort and discreet sophistication. The environment is casual enough to make us feel at ease but doesn’t let us forget the prestige of its two Michelin stars and the ambition of the Sühring brothers to reach even higher.

Starting the Experience
We began with a German sparkling wine, Griesel Grande Cuvée 2018, blending the three classic Champagne grape varieties. A wine that, with its seriousness and harmony, suggested that the afternoon would be a journey of carefully thought-out and executed flavors.

And so, we were introduced to the first snacks. At Sühring, the only choice is the tasting menu, though some iconic dishes can be added to the experience. Each dish at the table told a small story, a memory of the brothers, recreated with enviable technical precision and a touch of fun.

Obatzda, a typical cheese dip with spicy notes, was creatively reimagined, served in a crispy pastry, and accompanied by mini ” beer mugs.” The playful reference to Oktoberfest brought smiles right at the start. Where there are Germans, there must be beer!

Next, the Brathering stood out with its elegant presentation and harmony between herring, mustard, and pickles, elevating the traditional dish to another level. One of my favorite moments, without a doubt.

When the peas appeared in the Grüne Erbsen dish, I couldn’t help but recall my childhood experiences with vegetable stews. These once-dreaded peas were elevated to the highest quality and texture and placed on a crunchy tartlet with mushrooms and elderflower.

One of the meal’s highlights was the Labskaus, a typically rustic dish, transformed into something modern and refined in form and elevated by the addition of ossetra caviar. The contrast between the corned beef, beetroot, and the salty notes of the caviar created an indulgent experience.

It was one of those moments when everything stops, and you remember why you love these gastronomic journeys so much.

Next came a fun snack, Enleta, a recreation of the German “Hanuta” wafers filled with duck foie gras, hazelnuts, and apricot. This unexpected combination surprised the palate, even more so when paired with aged Pfalz vinegar, whose balanced acidity perfectly cut through the dish’s richness.

The delicacy continued with Aal Grün, a heavy dish with eel cooked in broth, served with potatoes and a roux-based sauce, refreshed here, with the smoked eel standing out in a dish full of lightness. To pair, a Clemens Busch Marienburg Fahrlay Riesling GG 2016, known for its sweet, seductive notes and impeccable balance.

Like any good restaurant, bread is an essential part of the meal. At Sühring, modernity does not interfere with the essentials. Three types of artisanal loaves of bread made in-house, served with excellent butter at the perfect temperature, a detail that reinforces the idea that some traditions should not be broken.

Scallop and King Crab – Horseradish, Tarragon, and Kombu
This dish brings a balanced combination of freshness and sophistication. The delicacy of raw scallops in a carpaccio format, paired with the subtle sweetness of king crab, creates impeccable harmony, where horseradish and tarragon sauces add a slight spicy touch. The presence of kombu offers depth and texture, creating a sense of freshness that, without a doubt, defines the Sühring brothers’ cuisine. The pairing with Sauvignon Blanc Wagner Stempel 2022 brought out my usual love/hate relationship with the grape, showing more of the hate here, overshadowed by the previous wine, resulting in a less impactful contrast.

Arctic Char – Cauliflower, Almond, and Caviar
Simpler in appearance but incredibly complex in flavor, the butter-poached Arctic char was one of the most comforting dishes on the menu. The soft texture of the fish was enriched by the creaminess of cauliflower and the velvety notes of almonds, while the caviar provided a salty contrast that elevated the dish. The simplicity of the ingredients contrasted with the sophistication of the techniques, resulting in a dish with a smooth, refined flavor.

The pairing with the Salwey Kirchberg Weissburgunder GG 2016, with its minerality and citrus notes, elegantly complemented the buttered smoothness of the char.
Leipziger Allerlei – XXL Langoustine, white asparagus, peas, and morels
A modern recreation of the traditional German dish Leipziger Allerlei, which usually combines boiled vegetables with a crayfish sauce, this dish was a true celebration of Langoustine, which took center stage. Cooked to perfection, the crustacean stood out alongside white asparagus, peas, and morel, which, although present, rightly ceded the spotlight to the crustacean. It was a combination rich in textures but balanced in flavor. The wine, Gaja Vista Mare Ca’Marcanda 2022, an Italian that evolved surprisingly throughout the meal, accompanied the dish beautifully, showing different characteristics as it developed in the glass.

SSpätzle with Australian Black Truffle, Allgäuer Cheese, and Crispy Onion
Midway through the meal, we were invited to visit the kitchen and watch the preparation of the next dish. Spätzle is a German classic, but it became a true masterpiece in the hands of the Sühring brothers. The homemade pasta, enriched with the unique flavor and aroma of Australian black truffle, was accompanied by an Allgäuer cheese sauce and crispy onion, creating an explosion of rich, comforting flavors. The dish captured the spirit of European cuisine with a touch of luxury, showing that, with technique and high-quality ingredients, the simplest dishes can be extraordinary.

The Keller Sparburgunder Frauenberg GG 2020, a Pinot Noir of great elegance, was the perfect choice to accompany this moment. It stood out as the best wine of the meal and certainly one of the best Pinots made outside of France.

Duck – Peach, cocoa nibs and root vegetables
The main dish, a duck dry aged for ten days and smoked, was presented with a technical precision that demonstrated the chefs’ full capacity. The tender and tasty meat was accompanied by lightly roasted peach and cocoa nibs, creating an exciting balance between the fruit’s sweetness and the cocoa’s bitterness. The roots, especially the beetroot, completed the dish with an earthy depth. The only thing that left me wanting was the need for crispy skin, which would have elevated the experience even more but is less common in European cuisine. Despite being excellent, the 2017 Pommard Clos Marey-Monge wine from Château Pommard lost its impact when served right after the incredible previous Pinot Noir.

As with any great meal, the cheese course was a highlight. Käsefondue was reinvented with an explosion of intense Époisses and truffle flavors. It was paired with Melsheimer Likorwein 2018, a fortified Riesling wine that brought a balanced sweetness, perfectly complementing the dish. It was a smooth and uneventful transition to the final chapter of the meal.

Omas Käsekuchen – Cheesecake, strawberries and shiso
PIt seems that cheesecake captures everyone’s hearts, not just in New York or the Basque Country; there is also a version in Germany. As at Sühring, nothing is quite what it seems. Their grandmother’s traditional dessert comes with a delicate base of cheese flavor and a panoply of fresher textures and flavors, to which is added a delicately crafted strawberry. Something that you certainly wouldn’t recognize as your dessert, but which was a happy ending to an already long and filling lunch.

To top it off, we were treated to an ice-cold egg nog, made from a recipe from the Sühring brothers’ grandmother and accompanied by small pralines that captured the warm, festive spirit of the meal. The Egon Muller Spatlese Scharzhofberger 2022, with its notes of ripe orchard fruit and a harmonious combination of sweetness and acidity, was one of the highlights among the wines, although young and promising, bringing a sweet and memorable end to this long gastronomic journey.

The wine list is mainly based on excellent German references and renowned European wines. Given the country’s rules and import costs, it is a difficult selection that deserves particular attention.

The service was impeccable all afternoon, with the fluidity and technique one would expect from a restaurant with ambitions of achieving a third Michelin star. Each dish was served with precision, accompanied by stories that never fell into exaggeration or became boring.

Final Thoughts

Over four hours, Sühring offers more than just a meal – it’s a journey through German memories and culture, reinterpreted in a way that combines love and satire with enviable technique by brothers Thomas and Mathias Sühring. Each dish appears as a fragment of a family memory, told with technical precision and a hint of humor.

Inside that house, I felt transported to a reinvented, modern Germany that never forgets what is essential. At a time when many of the best German chefs create their cuisines based on modern influences and ingredients and flavors that are more Japanese than German, it is refreshing to see how the Sühring brothers maintain the essence of their cuisine. And the most impressive thing is that they do this outside of Germany, where they could easily be misunderstood.

I left Sühring feeling like I had experienced something unique; although it was already at a very high level, it still seemed to be evolving. This makes me excited to see how far the Sühring brothers can take their cuisine.

One thing is certain: Sühring is a unique restaurant in the world, and the mix of tradition, innovation, and location makes it fascinating.