Brilhante: The Bohemian Lisbon of Luís Gaspar

Lisbon is increasingly a city of contrasts, where tradition and modernity intersect with the rhythm of vibrant multiculturalism. Brilhante stands in the heart of Cais do Sodré, a neighborhood rich in history. Recently, it was associated with the nightlife of younger crowds, yet it is now undergoing significant renewal. This restaurant pays tribute to Lisbon in the 1970s. However, a closer look reveals that the spirit of Paris lingers in every detail of the space, from its design to its concept.

With a solid career combining refined technique and respect for ingredients, Luís Gaspar has become one of the central figures of Portuguese gastronomy. Named Chef of the Year in 2017, Gaspar stood out for his ability to reinterpret classics and elevate traditional Portuguese cuisine. From Pica-Pau, where he gave a new voice to traditional Portuguese cuisine, to Brilhante, his mission remains clear: to bring back the glamour of bygone eras with a modern twist that resonates in cosmopolitan Lisbon.

Decor: Parisian Charm in the Heart of Lisbon

Crossing the restaurant’s threshold, visitors are immediately transported to another era. The décor strikes a balance between vintage and timeless, with dark wood furniture, golden metallic accents, and warm lighting creating a cozy and elegant atmosphere where time seems to slow down.

While some might perceive the design as ostentatious, this view is subjective. In truth, the understated charm and meticulous attention to detail demonstrate how Parisian inspiration has been skillfully adapted to the soul of a Lisbon that has long dreamed of Paris and the patina of its historic brasseries.

The central bar—evoking spaces of yesteryear—invites conviviality. Here, the experience begins with a cocktail in hand, gazing at the preparation of dishes nearby. This space bridges past and present, crafting a perfect setting for the kind of social interaction the internet tends to diminish.

The Experience

After soaking in the Parisian charm of the venue, it was time to explore the promise of its cuisine. We began at the bar, where the cocktails hinted at the attention to detail awaiting us. We opted for the Old Fashioned Brilhante, a house signature, and a Pisco Sour. Based on Bourbon whiskey, the former stood out for its well-integrated elements and refined aesthetics—a robust cocktail that perfectly matches the ambiance. Meanwhile, the Pisco Sour offered lightness and freshness, fulfilling its role well, albeit without surprises.

The attention to detail in crafting this time-traveling journey extended to the table: from the choice of materials to the bread service—baguette, of course—paired with smoked butter to start the meal.

Moving on to the starters, we enjoyed sautéed scallops with parsnip purée and lemongrass emulsion. The earthy and creamy notes of the purée were well refreshed by the emulsion, forming a well-executed dish that would have benefited from higher-quality scallops.

Next, an expertly cut and prepared classic beef tartare offered just the right spice level and balanced seasoning. However, the presence of truffle oil—an ingredient that should be abolished—detracted from the overall experience. Despite its excellent execution, the dish would have shone brighter without this element.

At this point, we were enjoying Terras de Lava Branco 2020 from Pico Wines, a versatile wine with a captivating volcanic and saline profile.

Continuing with comfort cuisine, few dishes evoke such feelings as the mushroom risotto that followed. Creamy and flavorful, it served its purpose well, though the rice grains could have been slightly more al dente.

A pièce de résistance do Brilhante é o seu Bife, uma interpretação moderna e apurada do histórico Bife à Marrare que tanto marcou a cidade e que ainda hoje encontramos um pouco por todo o lado sob a égide de Bife à Café. A carne, alta e suculenta, foi cozinhada no ponto desejado, com um molho bastante mais apetitoso do que as versões mais convencionais do prato. O puré de batata trufado, que acompanha o prato, é rico e indulgente, mas novamente o “trufado” surge como um elemento que rouba a honestidade que o prato poderia ter. A frescura da salada de alface é o equilíbrio necessário para completar o conjunto.

The centerpiece of Brilhante is its steak—a modern, refined interpretation of the historic Bife à Marrare, a dish that has long marked Lisbon’s culinary landscape. The thick, juicy meat was cooked to perfection, accompanied by a sauce far superior to conventional versions. The truffled mashed potatoes were rich and indulgent, though the “truffled” element once again compromised the dish’s authenticity. The fresh lettuce salad provided the necessary balance to complete the plate.

PFor the main course, we paired the dish with a less inspiring Touriga Nacional from Quinta do Vallado—conservative and overly intense, as is typical of this wine profile.

If anything encapsulates the irresistible spirit of Paris at Brilhante, aside from the steak and other noble ingredients like foie gras or lobster, it is the dessert. The vanilla and caramel mille-feuille, an impeccable creation by pastry chef Clayton Ferreira, reflects the excellence that has elevated the standards of every Grupo Plateform establishment.

Nothing was left to chance in this dessert: ultra-thin, crispy layers of pâte inversée alternated with an incredibly aromatic vanilla cream, delicately sweetened with caramel and complemented by the freshness of ice cream. Unfortunately, this dessert is no longer on the menu, though one hopes for its return.

The pairing closed with a Sauternes Château Guiraud 2015, bridging Lisbon and Paris. This exuberant yet balanced wine transitions from youthful tropical notes to marmalade and grapefruit nuances.

During a midweek lunch with the restaurant running slowly, the service was more than a complement or a means to an end. The team, attentive and discreet, guided the experience with confidence. From the presentation of the dishes to the cocktail suggestions, the staff demonstrated deep knowledge of the menu, making us feel that every detail was thoughtfully designed to please. A note on the wine list: at the time, it seemed simple and limited to more conservative options, but today, it reveals bolder names and an excellent selection of wines by the glass.

Conclusion

Brilhante stands as one of the finest tributes to Lisbon’s bohemian past, offering thoughtful cuisine in a setting that blends nostalgic charm with a cosmopolitan touch. Under Luís Gaspar’s leadership, the restaurant successfully balances the reinvention of classics with consistent technical execution, delivering dishes that range from comforting to refined.

However, its elevated positioning and location in Cais do Sodré raise a question: does this area—still closely tied to youthful nightlife—align with the restaurant’s more sophisticated, revivalist concept?

For Brilhante to fully flourish, the space must be lively and bustling, transforming meals into memorable events. In the vibrant atmosphere of a bustling bar, with the clink of cocktails being prepared and the energy of a long night, the restaurant can genuinely achieve the glamour and magic of a journey through time.

Although this visit took place some time ago, it’s important to note that certain aspects that could have been improved may already have been refined. For instance, the temporary introduction of Alba White Truffle to the menu reflects a shift toward greater authenticity and respect for ingredients, eliminating artificial truffle aromas.

Ultimately, Brilhante remains a promise worth revisiting. Under Luís Gaspar’s guidance, it has the potential to become a hallmark of this new Lisbon—noble, elegant, and cosmopolitan—if it can align gastronomy, atmosphere, and audience.