Nusara

In the past ten years, Thailand has gone from being known solely for its street food and low prices to emerging as an Asian powerhouse in Fine Dining. This recognition is primarily due to chefs like Thitid Tassanakajohn, better known as Chef Ton and other young chefs who, after training and careers abroad, returned to their country determined to apply their international knowledge to the local culture, ingredients, and recipes.

Ton first did this at his restaurant Le Du, combining Thai ingredients with Western technical refinement. This earned him international fame and first place in Asia’s 50 Best in 2023.

Several businesses and restaurants later, Ton and his younger brother Tam, maître and sommelier, decided to honor their grandmother Nusara, the grandmother they grew up with and whose influence sparked both of their passions for cooking. After Nusara passed away in 2020, they honored her by transitioning the idea of a traditional Thai restaurant to a fine dining establishment. Their goal was to introduce a new level of refinement and authenticity to Thai cuisine, which was not commonly found at the time.

The ten-seat restaurant was an immediate success, quickly winning over not only customers’ palates but also gaining international recognition. It culminated by achieving 6th place in Asia’s 50 Best and receiving the Art of Hospitality award in 2024.

With the availability of a new building at the end of the street, right in front of the media-covered Wat Pho temple, Nusara moved its stories and charm to a space that allowed its narrative and gastronomic proposal to evolve even further.

Ton likes to describe Nusara’s cuisine as “colorful Thai cuisine,” a combination of tradition and modernity that maintains the idea of a family meal without losing the ambition and status of haute cuisine.

Upon entering the building, we are welcomed into the lounge with traditional Thai hospitality, where the experience begins with a drink and an introduction to the concept and history of the restaurant. The journey starts in the lounge and continues in the kitchen, where Chef Ton and his team treat us to the first round of appetizers: a crispy bite with live shrimp tartare, fermented pork, and primrose flowers, followed by a coconut tartlet with squid, shrimp, and grouper jelly. These initial, delicate, and flavorful moments are a good omen for the experience ahead.

From the kitchen, we move to the top floor, a journey that can be made by elevator or the old-fashioned way. We pass through the different rooms of the restaurant and its beautiful wine cellar, all decorated with harmony and good taste.

We are treated to a breathtaking view of the Wat Pho temple from the rooftop. This stunning scenery is the perfect backdrop as Tam guides us through the service, starting with his selection of champagnes. We then proceed with Krug 171st edition, a wine centered on the 2015 harvest, full of typical Krug notes, with salty hints and acidity that perfectly complement the next dish: Caviar with fish dumplings and dried fish broth. Aesthetically and technically impeccable, the dumpling contrasts textures and flavors of pure elegance. This was followed by a Rice cone with Thai Wagyu tartare, accompanying the presentation of the products that would be part of the dinner.

We descend one floor and sit at the table, awaiting a delicious Thai cocktail made with Coconut, pineapple, galangal, and sato—Thai rice wine—. 
Hokkaido Scallop, Miang Kham Sauce, and Torch Ginger Sorbet
The raw Scallop, with its delicate and sweet texture, contrasts nicely with the umami explosion of the Miang sauce (coconut, galangal, peanut, shrimp paste, palm sugar, and fish sauce among others) and the freshness of the torch ginger sorbet.Squid, Cucumber, and Heirloom Tomato
We continue with another light and fresh starter, with cucumber and tomato as a bed for edible flowers and finely cut squid arranged like a veil. “Simple” and effective, this starter was accompanied by a carbonated cold brew tea, a beautiful duo of flavors.

Blue Swimmer Crab Curry, Horseshoe Crab Roe, and Crispy Rice Noodles
This was, without a doubt, one of the highlights of the entire experience! The sweetness of the crab cooked to perfection, combined with the contrast of textures and the depth of flavor, brought the comfort of family cooking to the table in a sophisticated and unforgettable version. It’s a great dish!

To harmonize, there was an equally noble Chante-Alouette Hermitage 2019 from M. Chapoutier, a wine with a pedigree that demonstrated all its structure and volume without overshadowing the curry.

Gourami, Slipper Lobster and Tom Kha
In this reinterpretation of the classic Tom Kha recipe, the coconut milk soup substitutes chicken or duck with fish and seafood, offering a less spicy but full of flavor nuances version, perfect to pave the way for the main courses.

A surprising pear cider, Fossey by Jérôme Forget, appeared in the glass with fine bubbles and a tropical fruit flavor and aroma.

After appetizers and starters, the table serves a family-style meal with small portions of different colorful elements: Shrimp Paste Salad with Watermelon, Tomato Relish with Cucumber, Peanut Relish with Sweet Pork Belly, and Lemongrass Relish with Betel Leaf, composed one of the most visually appealing dishes of the entire dinner, demonstrating the influence of Japanese culture on the most current chefs. Alongside was a wonderful Grilled River Prawn Salad and a Green Curry with Smoked Chicken and dumplings. These dishes culminate with the arrival of the veal broth and the Thai Wagyu Short Rib, served with minced wagyu and holy basil leaf, accompanied by generous servings of white and red rice.

Another dish that brings to mind the comfort of a family table but with more technically refined and sophisticated ingredients. It was a moment of indulgence, where the spiciness indeed danced on the taste buds with every bite.

In addition to offering cold and hot teas, the glass also presented the highly regarded Gaja Barbaresco 2020, showcasing Tam’s dedication to serious wine pairing.

Desserts begin with a refreshing combination of pink guava and roselle parfait, a turning point where meringue combines with fresh notes and the light sweetness of the whole. Very good!

Sago, Fresh Coconut, and Green Chestnut
Despite being less visually appealing and colorful, it is easy to see why this dessert has been part of the menu almost since the beginning of the restaurant. True sago cooked with harmony and delicacy in fresh coconut juice, served with steamed taro, salted coconut ice cream, coconut milk, and chestnut. It is creamy, light, and fresh without excess sweetness, as the end of a menu should be.

To complement the dish, a refreshing coconut and sato-based cocktail was served.

The petit fours cart closes the meal with an authentic and delicate assortment of Thai flavors, such as mango, pineapple, lychees, peanuts, pandan, and coconut, worked with refinement and elegance.

Everything went perfectly for the service, as evidenced by their Art of Hospitality award in Asia’s 50 Best. Tam and his experienced service director, Martin, created an engaging moment with the entire team without excessive explanations or storytelling, letting the meal flow subtly.

Nusara’s wine list is impressive, with a selection that includes classic wines and disruptive pairings, like pear cider, teas, and cocktails. It is easily establishing itself as a wine reference in the city.

Final Thoughts 
After reading many positive things about Nusara’s early years and following its meteoric rise in gastronomic rankings, expectations were set high, even more so with a new location where brothers Ton and Tam now have better conditions to pay proper tribute to their Grandmother Nusara. At the right moment, it took an eternal love and the work of an entire team for those expectations to be easily surpassed – the idyllic setting, the welcoming and intimate atmosphere, the smiles, and above all, the food made this visit memorable. Ton describes Nusara’s cuisine as “colorful Thai, neither traditional nor modern.” However, Nusara goes beyond that, presenting an interpretation of Thai cuisine that is close to kaiseki cuisine, where each element is worked on with precision and delicacy. This balanced approach to flavors and textures appeals to both local and international customers. I believe it will continue to evolve in the future as it gains more audacity to challenge the palates of visitors less familiar with Thai culture.

Whether for a romantic dinner or a gastronomic journey through Chef Ton’s Thailand, Nusara is a must-visit!

And finally, the question remains: Michelin, aren’t you forgetting something?