The Ritz in London is not just a hotel or a restaurant; it is a true institution! Since its opening in 1906 by César Ritz and Auguste Escoffier, the Ritz has hosted countless illustrious guests, including royalty, politicians, and socialites. It even served as the backdrop for several decisive meetings that shaped the course of World War II.
Like everything with a long history and identity, the hotel has gone through various phases: from the death of César Ritz to the Great Depression, from different owners and managers to the fashions of each decade. However, it has always managed to reinvent itself, maintaining to this day that majestic aura that gave rise to the world’s most extravagant adjective – “ritzy.”
Entering the Ritz is like taking a journey back in time, transporting us to an era of luxury and elegance rarely found today. The atmosphere is sumptuous, filled with bronze and marble, sparkling chandeliers, gilded mirrors, and high-quality fabrics. It is a grand room where the tables are meticulously set, and the service is fit for royalty from the reception.
Seated, we are immediately enveloped by an atmosphere of refinement, highlighted by a touch of British tradition. Even a pianist is present to enrich the sensory experience.
We started with a champagne trolley that arrived promptly and elegantly at the table—after all, we were at the Ritz! This was quickly followed by a series of canapés, which are already a signature of the restaurant and chef John Williams MBE.
Ragstone Cheese Mousse with basil on a sablé base and a Duck Liver Parfait with sour cherry and yogurt. Both were delicate and perfectly executed, with the mousse offering a delightful subtlety and the parfait providing a harmonious contrast between the rich flavor of the foie and the bitterness of the cherry.
Among the amuse-bouche, a Colchester Oyster dressed with oyster and dill creams, finished at the table with Ritz Champagne and herb oil, stands out. It is an indulgent experience, as it should be!
But the best of this phase is saved for the Beef Tartare Tartlet with Oscietra Caviar and a touch of crème fraîche. The caviar’s salinity uniquely seasons the classic tartare, creating a truly sublime combination.
Scallops from the Isle of Mull, Bergamot, and Avocado
The first course quickly reveals John Williams MBE’s generosity in ingredient selection. Raw scallop, impressively sized and sweet, served with a delicate rice wine jelly, soy sauce, and citrus, accompanied by avocado purée and caviar lime. The result is a fresh starter with a perfect balance of sweetness and acidity.
Duck Liver Ballotine, Damson, and Pistachio
One of John Williams MBE’s kitchen classics is the Duck Liver ballotine, marinated in Port, Sauternes, and Armagnac, wrapped in a Port wine and spice jelly, and served with preserved damson gel and pistachio yogurt. Alongside it is a no less stunning brioche and a pistachio Bakewell tart. This dish has been executed and tested over the years, using the best quality products and resulting in a very hard-to-match taste.
I doubt I have ever tasted a better foie gras!
Langoustines à la Nage, Bronze Fennel
After following the restaurant for several years and reading various articles, I had the highest expectations for this dish. It is a powerful duo of Scottish langoustines, perfectly cooked in butter and served over cauliflower purée, fennel, and baby vegetables, all tied together with a rich and complex nage.
Ultimately, the dish met all my expectations, with a perfect balance of sweetness, richness from the sauce, and contrast from the vegetables. I could eat this every day of my life!
Sweetbreads, Parmigiano Reggiano, and Truffle
For the first meat course, a sweetbread is lightly steamed until tender, then cooked in butter, garlic, and herbs, and finally glazed with a truffle sauce (from Périgord, of course, since we are at the Ritz). At the table, it is finished with a creamy Parmigiano Reggiano 36-month sauce. This rich and unctuous dish demonstrates the precision and virtuosity of the Ritz kitchen.
At this point, we wonder how Michelin critics passing through here must be losing their minds…
Anjou Pigeon à la Presse
Then, it was time for the kitchen to share its brilliance with the dining room, showcasing the arts of tableside service done come il faut. An entire roasted Anjou pigeon is presented, deboned at the table to separate the breasts, with the carcass pressed to extract its juices to create a rich and special sauce.
The juices are then flambéed and worked at the table with Graham’s Port wine, green pepper, and butter. Meanwhile, the breast is served with salt-baked kohlrabi to provide earthy notes. Alongside, immaculate pommes soufflées, as if there had not been enough technique displayed until now.
The meat is pink and succulent, the sauce rich and pungent, with the green pepper cutting through its intensity and the kohlrabi balancing the notes with its herbal side. This is a masterful dish that every cook should try!
Cox Apple, Sauternes, and Vanilla
Despite its “foamy” appearance, the interior hides a modern interpretation of an apple tart. The fruit was presented in different textures, from ice cream to foam, roasted apple, Sauternes cream, and caramelized almonds. It is a refreshing and nuanced pre-dessert.Salted Hazelnut, Praline, and Milk Ice Cream
A Snickers 2.0, where all the elements and textures complement each other in an impeccable execution. Sweet but balanced, it surprises, especially at the end of such an extended menu.
Because it was a celebration night, there was still time for a celebration cake (which can be ordered directly when making the reservation), accompanied by delicate green tea and petit fours: raspberry tartlet, vanilla macaron, and chocolate ganache bonbon.
Accompanying the meal, we enjoyed drinking the increasingly rare Viña Tondonia Blanco 2009. Despite coming from a hot year, the wine turned out to be lighter than expected, with a complexity and structure that perfectly harmonized with the entire menu.
The service at the Ritz is classic and diligent, reflecting the mastery of times past without ever falling into excess. Everything arrived at the right moment, with plates, smiles, and conversations marking an experience with impeccable precision, without apparent effort or lack of rigor, as it should be everywhere.
Final Thoughts
Some experiences are hard to describe fully, and a meal at the Ritz London is one of them. Incomprehensibly, the Michelin guide continues to undervalue John Williams MBE’s kitchen, which presents better execution and products than many three-starred restaurants. Above all, eating at the Ritz is an indescribable pleasure, which is more than can be said about many Michelin-starred restaurants. Indeed, it does not intend to make us think, influence us, hit Instagram likes, or tell us fantastical stories, but rather to be a true celebration of taste.
John Williams MBE’s French cuisine is classic without being dated, refined to a rare point of balance, and with a relentless pursuit of the best products, resulting in a rare beauty that deserves the obligatory visit of any foodie who wants more than just ticking numbers off a list.
Once in a lifetime, without fears or prejudices, the Ritz is a place everyone should know!
Prices from 120€ (without wines)
Our menu was around 250€
The Ritz London – 150 Piccadilly, St. James’s – London