In the heart of the Parisian fashion, right on Avenue Montaigne, the restaurant Maison Blanche occupies the top of Champs Elysées’ Theatre building. Due to its location, and like in other neighbors like L’Avenue, fashion and fashion status mark an important point in the restaurant’s life. Renewed in 2001 by Imaad Rahmouni, a known cooperator of Philippe Strack, its front in glass is the highlight, with a simple decoration, minimalist, but comfortable and cozy. A table by the window is the best option if the weather doesn’t allow the use of the terrace, which is by itself the strength of the house and makes Maison Blanche one of the restaurants with the best view of Paris, with the Seine and the Eiffel Tower as background.
View from the terrace
Because the nights in February are cold, we had to book a table inside, where the game of glasses and mirrors also allows a view over the iconic piece of work. The kitchen, ’cause not only fashion or a view makes a restaurant, is headed by Hervé Nepple, on the baton and watchful eye of the Pourcel brothers (Jacques and Laurent, awarded with 2 Michelin stars in their restaurant Le Jardin de Sens), therefore quality and care are not left to chance.
Entering the restaurant, full house and eclectic environment, since the young ladies prepared for Paris Fashion Week that started that day, to couples or American politicians with appearance of having come out of the House of Cards set.
At the table we verified that the details are carefully thought and our meal came to be accompanied by a nice employee with perfect Portuguese (Brazilian).
We started the meal with the usual bread, good quality to which followed the amuse bouche, with an interesting polenta and bresaola.
“Perle Blanche” oysters No. 3, Granny Smith apple and cucumber
Excellent quality oysters, very well accompanied with the onion layer and the freshness of the cucumber and apple sauce. Great start.
To go with, a Barmés Buecher Gewurztraminer Herrenweg 2010, a complex name to an excellent wine from Alsace.
Snails, mushrooms, watercress
It is impossible going to France without trying the classics, here, the escargots over a delicate crunch, mushrooms and a watercress sauce that worked very well wrapping up the dish, once the snails by themselves were a little bit dry. However, the combination worked really well.
Harmonizing with a glass of Saint-Bris Corps de Garde, a Burgundy wine that worked very nicely with the dish.
Dory, carrot, chervil root and citrus reduction
A dish with excellent presentation, serving up carrot in two textures and the fish perfectly cooked. Not having a moment of creative tear or audaciousness, the dish did not compromise with a delicate and well accomplished set of flavors.
A light red, from Domaine des Ardoisières, the Argile rouge 2012, was a discrete companion to the dish, that while not blocking it, didn’t bring it anything.
Black Angus filet, crunchy potato, chanterelles and shallot confit
A dish with spotlight on the delicate shallots and the crunchy potatoes, in some sort of fried and pretty crunchy dauphinoise. Meat on spot, lacked in flavor (like all the loin), but was well complemented by the sauce. A good dish.
Accompanying a Cadette 2011 from Domaine Les Mille Vignes, that combined well with the elements of the dish.
The Maison Blanche doses are not exactly small, and for a space highly frequented by fashion people, must not be easy for most to finish the dishes.
Followed the pre-dessert, a delicate and tasty chocolate and caramel mousse with a sesame praline.
Warm “Araguani” chocolate cake, vanilla cream, coffee ice cream and citrus
All the elements were good, with the cake standing out. Unfortunately the dose was too big, becoming an heavy dessert.
Caramel millefeuille, rum ice cream
A much better achieved dessert, in terms of flavor and proportion, with an excellent millefeuille and a great praline mousse. The rum ice cream took away some of the sweetness of the dessert, improving it. Excellent.
The service is young and relaxed, in a modern space, with low light and music that almost takes us to the runway ambiance. Still, true sympathy and professionalism are present in the right moments.
Final Remarks
Maison Blanche cuisine may not be one of the best in the country, however if we join other characteristics like the location and the amazing view to the menu of the Pourcel brothers, there’s no doubt that it is one of the restaurants with best view and quality/price range in the city that does not compromise, especially at lunch and preferably at the terrace. Allying all the factors to its audience and the well accomplished transformation of the space in an exclusive night club, Maison Blanche is an accurate destination and to be taken in account in a next trip to the city of lights.
Maison Blanche
15 Avenue Montaigne, Paris
+331 4723 5599