In 2020, Yoji Tokuyoshi returned his Michelin star, not as a provocative gesture, nor out of exhaustion or fear. After the pandemic, much had changed. His delivery project took on a life…
Restaurants
Moebius Sperimentale: Anarchy, Technique and a Star
June. Milan was simmering. I arrived on Via Cappellini just after seven. The air was thick — that Lombard heat that glues your shirt to your back the second you leave air…
SEM: When Waste Becomes Gold
Alfama, Lisbon — between what endures and what changes Alfama still looks like Alfama. Uneven cobblestones, an ancient urban fabric, tiles worn smooth by time. But beneath this almost immutable appearance, the…
CURA: A Star in Transition
Inheriting a Michelin star must feel a little like inheriting a house full of ghosts. Not malicious ghosts—just the kind that whistle softly, “this is how it used to be done.” Rodolfo…
Yacht Club Dubai: the Sea, Bvlgari and Romito
Romito Without Manifesto May in Dubai is a dare. The city slows down before the blazing summer feels like an act of defiance against the heat. It was precisely in that context…
Smoked Room Dubai: Fire in the Desert
The glass door opens. Smoke curls toward a mirrored ceiling, fourteen seats curve around an open flame, and, slack-jawed, I realize: Dani García knew how to export fire to the desert. The…
Orfali Bros: When Aleppo Meets The World
Far from the Gulf May. Dubai. The air vibrates, thick, as if the desert had decided to swallow the whole Dubai. Jumeirah Wasl 51. Far from the gentle breeze of the Persian…
FZN: The Empire of Restraint
The Closed Door There’s a doorbell. Just a doorbell. In Dubai – a city that advertises everything in gold leaf and fifteen-metre-high letters – Björn Frantzén hid his restaurant behind an unmarked…
Studio Frantzén: The Democracy of Rigour
Between Stockholm and the Desert The world becomes more intriguing when seen through the eyes of a child. The sparkle in little Francisca’s gaze, as she earnestly describes the grandeur of things…