{"id":36928,"date":"2024-12-18T14:16:39","date_gmt":"2024-12-18T14:16:39","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/flavorsandsenses.com\/?p=36928"},"modified":"2024-12-18T14:20:58","modified_gmt":"2024-12-18T14:20:58","slug":"kappo","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/flavorsandsenses.com\/en\/kappo\/","title":{"rendered":"Kappo: A Tribute to Japanese Cuisine"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"O<\/a>
The first moment of the tasting: crispy nori, tuna belly, and caviar<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In the heart of Cascais, far from the hustle and bustle of big cities, where the calm of the streets contrasts with the vibrancy of the town’s coastal hotspots, lies Kappo<\/strong>\u2014one of the most discreet yet promising Japanese cuisine restaurants in Portugal.<\/p>\n

Since its opening in 2021 under the leadership of Chef Tiago Pen\u00e3o<\/strong>, the restaurant has stood out for its meticulous approach rooted in Japanese tradition, focusing on technique, aging, and the delicacy of the finest seafood. Offering an omakase-style experience, Kappo invites diners to trust the chef, delivering an intimate journey that unveils the true essence of Edomae sushi and Japanese cuisine within an acceptable dining model.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Tiago Pen\u00e3o is a key figure when discussing Japanese cuisine in Portugal. His career includes a Michelin star earned at Midori<\/strong> (see<\/a>) alongside Chef Pedro Almeida and a notable stint at Praia no Parque<\/strong>, where he shared the counter with Lucas Azevedo. At Kappo, Pen\u00e3o combines the precision of Japanese craftsmanship with the richness of Portuguese ingredients, showcasing items like cockles and sardines with impeccable technique. This passion recently led him to establish Izakaya<\/strong>, Kappo’s more casual sibling, which pays homage to the informal culture of Japanese taverns.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/strong><\/h3>\n

The Space: Japanese Minimalism<\/span><\/strong><\/h3>\n

Located in one of Cascais’ oldest and most refined areas, surrounded by elegant residences and verdant landscapes, Kappo presents itself as a minimalist refuge inspired by Japan. The centerpiece is the long wooden counter, where the experience unfolds in real time under the watchful eyes of diners. Every movement and cut reflects not only precision but also invites the sharing of ideas and questions about each technique or ingredient used.<\/p>\n

Everything at Kappo invites immersion into a ritual of flavors and sensations that transport diners to distant latitudes, from the minimalist design to the woodwork and ceramics crafted by Portuguese artisans.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Sashimi – Squid, Marinated Mackerel, and Tuna<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u00a0The Experience<\/h3>\n

On this first visit, we chose the Edomae nigiri selection available at lunch, allowing us to explore some of Tiago Pen\u00e3o’s simple (but not simplistic!) creations and a diverse range of fish and cuts – The full omakase menu was only available at dinner. (Note: Since this distant visit, Kappo has adjusted its hours, now operating exclusively at dinner, except for Saturday lunch, where the omakase menu is also served.)<\/em><\/p>\n

The experience began with a touch of creativity and luxury, reminiscent of the Michelin universe: crispy nori with toro and caviar<\/strong>\u2014a combination that, while familiar, never fails to impress the palate when executed well.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Dashi and cockles<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

This was followed by sashimi<\/strong> pieces where the fish’s cut and handling shone: squid, cured mackerel, and tuna, each revealing subtle layers of flavor and texture, enhanced by a magnificent eight-year-aged soy sauce.<\/p>\n

The highlight of the meal’s opening, however, was the finale of the starters: a comforting and complex dashi with cockles<\/strong> that transported us to the deep and seemingly minimalist foundations of Japanese cuisine.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Horse mackarel nigiri<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

But it was with the nigiri sequence that Kappo demonstrated its true essence: the horse mackerel<\/strong> and marinated mackerel opened this section with freshness and intensity; the five-day-aged<\/p>\n

sea bream<\/strong> and two-week-aged amberjack revealed the meticulous aging process that so enhances the fish’s flavor.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Marinated mackerel<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Dry-aged Sea bream<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Building up, the akami<\/strong> marinated in zuke brought textural contrasts within the fish, while the three-week-aged tuna belly<\/strong> concluded with perfect unctuousness.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

At the right moment, our appetite got the better of us, and we couldn’t resist ordering some extras, notably a sardine nigiri<\/strong>\u2014the best lunch moment\u2014with perfect texture and that peculiar unctuousness and flavor only a good oily fish can deliver.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Sardine nigiri<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

This was followed by an indulgent tuna and caviar temaki<\/strong> and a sea urchin gunkan<\/strong>\u2014undeniably flavor-packed delights.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

To close, a refreshing and light citrus jelly with meringue and soy honey<\/strong> was served, followed by a delicate matcha and honey marshmallow<\/strong>, leaving a subtle and balanced sweetness on the palate. Everything was beautifully presented with the finesse expected from a starred restaurant.<\/p>\n

Service and Technique<\/span><\/strong><\/h3>\n

The service is relaxed yet precise, creating the ideal atmosphere for a counter-focused dining experience. Given the long journey ahead, we opted to skip the wine and chose cocktails<\/strong>, crafted for the restaurant by Toca da Raposa and served pre-batched. Although well-presented, these drinks fell short of expectations and didn’t quite match the level of the gastronomic offerings.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Citrus jelly with meringue and soy honey<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

When it comes to technique, Tiago Pen\u00e3o and his team showcase evident mastery, both in fish cutting and aging. The rice\u2014a fundamental element of sushi\u2014is of superior quality and served at the correct temperature. However, we noticed some inconsistency in the assembly of the nigiri, with variations among team members that keen eyes will pick up on. This technical detail is pivotal for further elevating the experience\u2014especially when multiple chefs are behind the counter, and this isn’t a one-man show, as is common in most omakase setups.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
marshmallow<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Conclusion<\/h3>\n

The evolution of Japanese cuisine in Portugal in recent years has been remarkable. We’ve transitioned from a relentless pursuit of fusion and confusion spaces to an increasing number of restaurants seeking the essence and purity behind the combination of neta and shari. With this, Kappo<\/strong> firmly positions itself at the epicenter of Portuguese-Japanese gastronomy’s top offerings.<\/p>\n

This lunch was undoubtedly an excellent starting point\u2014a “teaser” for what the omakase menu promises. To make a fair assessment, it’s in the full menu where Tiago fully showcases the fusion between Japanese tradition and his unique vision. However, even with the shorter menu, Kappo is worth every moment for the excellence of its fish and attention to detail, despite minor areas for improvement. These details, I believe, have already been addressed with the current schedule and focused offering.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Thus, Cascais has gained an exceptional venue that, considering its concept, location, and product quality, is undeniably a remarkable experience for those who value technique, product, and detail!<\/p>\n

See you soon!<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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