{"id":35102,"date":"2024-06-11T21:54:32","date_gmt":"2024-06-11T20:54:32","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/flavorsandsenses.com\/?p=35102"},"modified":"2024-06-12T10:32:17","modified_gmt":"2024-06-12T09:32:17","slug":"jaz-by-ana-ros","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/flavorsandsenses.com\/en\/jaz-by-ana-ros\/","title":{"rendered":"JAZ by Ana Ro\u0161"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

During a brief visit to Slovenia, there was still time to explore the capital and discover two new openings on their debut night: the Hotel AS and its restaurant JAZ, the first project by Ana Ro\u0161 outside Hi\u0161a Franko.<\/p>\n

After several months with a pop-up in the city and numerous events, Ana joined forces with the Raspopovi\u0107 family (a historic name in Slovenian gastronomy) to open her establishment in the capital.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

But don’t be mistaken in thinking this is another fine dining project with ambitions for stars and significant accolades. No! Here, Ana aims to be herself (JAZ means “I” in Slovenian) as a diner, offering simple, shareable dishes that shed the apparent complexity of her usual cuisine while maintaining her commitment to the choice and origin of ingredients. Ana describes it as “Young dining,” a young and unpretentious concept, a restaurant for every day that aims to bring an international and cosmopolitan atmosphere to Ljubljana.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

To achieve this, she surrounded herself with “her people,” former chefs from Hi\u0161a Franko with long careers and experience in some of the world’s best restaurants. This includes the Portuguese chef In\u00eas Silva Azevedo, who has worked at Cantinho do Avillez, 100 Maneiras, Mugaritz, Geranium, and Hi\u0161a Franko (she had returned to Portugal at the time this article was written).<\/p>\n

The decor is vibrant and well-executed, with an exciting contrast of modern design and comfort, similar to the rest of the hotel.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Oysters, apple verjus, pear, cucumber, leche de tigre, and pine oil<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

On our first visit, expectations were high. There was a sense of anticipation, with the house full of customers excited to see what the famous chef would bring to the capital.<\/p>\n

We started with very well-executed cocktails, also created by Anja Skrbinek, the beverage manager at Hi\u0161a Franko, and oysters paired with fresh and herbal flavors.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Ana\u2019s Vitello Tonnato<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Next came a delicious Vitello Tonnato, nicely complemented with pumpkin seeds, herbs, oils, capers, and ceviche with fermented tomato water, melon, and herb oil. The latter was less appealing to my palate, as I prefer a pungent and acidic ceviche, whereas this one was more balanced with a hint of sweetness.<\/p>\n

\"Ceviche<\/a>
Ceviche with leche de tigre of fermented tomato water<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We continued excellently with seasonal root vegetables and sinful Sardine Bruschettas with oyster mayonnaise, tomato, and basil.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Sardine Bruschetta<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

By this time, I, who generally avoid newly opened places, was captivated by the combinations of comfort and technical twists in the dishes. A good example is the Pasta Ana, which was more of a “homemade” version than at her starred restaurant, yet still prepared with Ana’s father’s same Istrian tomato sauce and the cottage cheese from the Soca Valley mountains. A dish as simple as it is delicious, showcasing another side of the chef, reminiscent of a dish her mother always prepared for her and that she continues to make in her private retreat.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Ana Ro\u0161 presenting her Pasta Ana<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Pasta Ana<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

With a lively atmosphere of sharing, high music, and good company, we sampled the entire menu and its various registers. After the pasta, there was a decadent Focaccia stuffed with porchetta, cheese, vegetables, and truffle, with crispy fries accompanied by homemade sauces. This demonstrated that here, more than a gastronomic concept, we enjoyed dishes and flavors the chef loves to eat and share relaxedly.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Focaccia with Porchetta<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The dishes kept coming, and the one that surprised me the most was a Waldorf Salad, notable for its shiso notes and the sweetness of semi-dried beetroot. A salad full of layers, textures, and techniques, which I could easily eat daily, and some gnocchi still under development, showed that it was an unfinished dish.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Walford Salad<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Spaghetti with Tolmin and truffle<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In the style of a Cacio e Pepe 2.0, we had spaghetti with a Tolmin cheese cream and truffle, indulgent and delicious as expected, and a “much-maligned” Schnitzel. Ana told us, “It’s hard to find a good schnitzel in the city today,” so she wanted to bring back some of the traditions that strongly influenced Austria, Italy, and Slovenia. This classic is served here with creamy mashed potatoes, grapefruit, and a salad full of textures. Crunchy, moist, and well-flavored, it was another testament to JAZ’s excellent mark on comfort food.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Schnitzel<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We then moved on to two slightly more complex main dishes: first, a sea bream with roasted potatoes, cabbage, and a rich sauce, followed by roe deer (one of the chef’s favorite ingredients) with celery pur\u00e9e, black truffle, and corn pur\u00e9e. Both were well-executed, with a distinctly autumnal feel and refined technique, resulting in a rich and comforting taste.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

We finished with desserts, the highlight of which were the various house-made ice creams. This indicates that Ana’s next venture could very well be an ice cream parlor after two restaurants and a bakery.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Desserts<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Nonetheless, the standout was clearly a classic from Kobarid that I hadn’t tried during my visit to Hi\u0161a Franko \u2014 the Kobarid \u0161truklji<\/em>, a dumpling filled with walnuts, raisins, and breadcrumbs and drenched in plenty of butter and caramel.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Kobarid \u0161truklji<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

A special mention goes to the service, which on the first night was surprisingly positive and made me reconsider my stance on newly opened restaurants. Good knowledge, friendliness, and the drive expected of a truly cosmopolitan restaurant.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n

Final Thoughts<\/strong><\/p>\n

Those who seek out Slovenia rarely do so for its gastronomy, with the obvious exception being Ana Ro\u0161’s cuisine at Hi\u0161a Franko. This has opened doors to a new generation of more daring chefs and projects in the country and sparked local interest in more than just grandmother’s cooking.<\/p>\n

This is where JAZ fits in. It is a young and cosmopolitan project that brings the perfect union of cuisine, comfort, technique, and modernity to the capital in a space where you want to linger.<\/p>\n

Whether for a delicious breakfast or a dinner with friends, Ana’s new project is a must-visit in Ljubljana.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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