{"id":14097,"date":"2018-02-02T12:43:26","date_gmt":"2018-02-02T12:43:26","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.flavorsandsenses.com\/en\/?p=2279"},"modified":"2019-04-07T23:40:50","modified_gmt":"2019-04-07T23:40:50","slug":"champeaux","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/flavorsandsenses.com\/en\/champeaux\/","title":{"rendered":"Champeaux"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/a>I remember visiting Paris as a young man, and trying to avoid the metro station Rer de\u00a0Chatelet-Les Halles\u00a0<\/em>as much as I could, for the bustle of the thousands of people crossing or the suspicious environment of the Les Halles area.
\nGone were the times that area was the “womb” of the city, being home of the main food marked in the region of Paris, that moved to Rungis almost 50 years ago.<\/p>\n

Fortunately, nowadays, everything’s changed! A few years after starting the construction, and many millions of euros after, Les Halles is revitalized, appealing for international brands to install; and with its Canop\u00e9e<\/em>, an architectural structure covering the\u00a0Forum des Halles<\/em>, with over 18000 glass roof tiles, it’s a touristic attraction as well.<\/p>\n

And below the Canop\u00e9e<\/em>, the master\u00a0Ducasse\u00a0decided to make his foray into the renewed world of the station\u00a0Brasseries<\/em>,\u00a0similarly to\u00a0Eric Frechon\u00a0or\u00a0Thierry Marx, creating a democratic idea of the signature cuisine, available to all (or almost!).<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Opposite to what he’s been doing at\u00a0Aux Lyonnais<\/a><\/em>\u00a0and at\u00a0Benoit<\/em>, Ducasse and his associate\u00a0Olivier Maurey <\/em>wanted to modernize the\u00a0Brasserie<\/em>, and adapt it to the ambiance of\u00a0Les Halles<\/em>. The atelier Cigu\u00eb was in charge of the decoration, creating a minimalist atmosphere, with some touches of the 70’s industrial era, allied to a contemporary design that leads to mixed opinions – you either love it or hate it!<\/p>\n

A key piece in this decoration is the giant panel on the wall, reminding us an airport or station display, but instead of flight info or schedules, shows the menu and the chef’s suggestions. An irresistible detail!<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>But let us begin our gastronomic journey then, starting with a toast of\u00a0Champagne Baron of Rothschild Extra Brut, <\/em>a classic in Paris.<\/p>\n

Followed a classic and delicious au levain baguette,<\/em> crunchy outside, nice aroma, light and airy inside, always nicely paired with butter and the delicacies to follow.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Confit Duck Foie Gras\u00a0<\/strong>and fig jam\u00a0<\/em>
\nWishing all the beginnings could be like this! Perfect tureen, rich, unctuous, of great flavor! The Foie went perfectly with the fig jam, slightly spicy. Very good!<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Croaker, <\/strong>carrot, lime, and ginger\u00a0<\/em>
\nThe picture is not the best of the illustrations of this tartar, aka marinated fish with carrot, ginger, and lime. Delicate fish, right texture, nicely seasoned, and good\u00a0sweet and sour balance.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>“Grand M\u00e8re” Pate,<\/strong>\u00a0pickles\u00a0<\/em>
\nContinuing the saga of good dishes and sides to the great bread arriving continuously at the table (the anti-gluten brigade forgive me!). Classic pate, nicely prepared, great balance of fat and meat. Perfect were the homemade pickles, not only giving beauty to the dish but also taking it to another level.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Steak tartar<\/strong>
\nThen came the steak tartar and with it the first disappointment of the evening. Perfect looks, a preview of good flavor by the hands of the Ducasse team. But that was the flaw, no flavor of the seasoning, and mostly the quality of the meat. To compensate the blandness of the tartar, the chips were really addictive.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Coquilletttes with ham,\u00a0<\/strong>comt\u00e9,\u00a0and black truffle<\/em>
\nOne of the famous dishes of the restaurant, also an allusion to children’s food, transporting it to luxury ingredients and haute cuisine techniques. Who never ate pasta with cheese and ham? And those who did, won’t ever go back after this combo. A dish that makes us smile, giving us the comfort of simplicity,\u00a0raising the flavor bar for its ingredient combination. Delicious!<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Entrec\u00f4te<\/strong>, chips,\u00a0and<\/em>\u00a0B\u00e9arnaise\u00a0<\/em>
\nAnd back to trouble, and with the same ingredient. The medium rare came to well cooked, and the flavor and texture of the meat also didn’t please us. A small flaw, paid for with the brilliant B\u00e9arnaise<\/em>\u00a0and the potatoes, worthy of a meal themselves.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Apricot<\/strong><\/em>\u00a0Souffl\u00e9<\/em><\/strong>, almond ice cream<\/em>
\n“After the sun comes the calm”, and so it was! After a less accomplished dish, a moment that’s been making the restaurant famous, the\u00a0souffl\u00e9s<\/em>, here in a fantastic version of apricot, very well paired with the almond ice cream. Excellent technique and ingredient combination. A beautiful ending!<\/p>\n

The wine list, without the extension of the great houses, contemplates a bit from all the French territory, with special emphasis on Bordeaux and Burgundy, of course. And the latter we chose\u00a0for wines by the glass.<\/p>\n

To say also, the service is great, nice and helpful, making us feel welcomed, even with all the rules and standards the Ducasse group must impose.<\/p>\n

Final Remarks\u00a0<\/strong>
\nThe Champeaux<\/em> is part of a new wave of brasseries<\/em>, where the great names of the French cuisine present more down to earth proposals, comfort food based in French traditions, and affordable by the majority wanting to visit a signature space, in this case, of the master Ducasse. The space and decoration were a nice surprise, with modern details and very tasteful. The cuisine had some flaws, namely the meats, but fortunately overcome by the quality of everything else we ate.<\/p>\n

Therefore, and considering the many restaurant options in Les Halles, despite the slightly higher prices of the\u00a0Champeaux, we recommend the visit, mostly for those searching for delicious classics like the soufll\u00e9 or the foie gras, in a cosmopolitan and modern environment. See you soon!<\/p>\n

Champeaux<\/a><\/span>
\nAverage price: 50\u20ac per person without wines\u00a0<\/span>
\nLa Canop\u00e9e – Forum des Halles, Porte Rambuteau \u2013 Paris<\/span>
\n+33 01 53 45 84 50<\/span><\/p>\n

Vers\u00e3o Portuguesa<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n

Photos: Flavors & Senses<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

I remember visiting Paris as a young man, and trying to avoid the metro station Rer de\u00a0Chatelet-Les Halles\u00a0as much as I could, for the bustle of the thousands of people crossing or the suspicious environment of the Les Halles area. Gone were the times that area was the “womb” of the city, being home of…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":26382,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1986,2111],"tags":[769,1556,1557,1771,2003,1951],"class_list":["post-14097","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-casual","category-paris","tag-alain-ducasse","tag-brasserie","tag-champeaux","tag-les-halles","tag-paris-en","tag-where-to-eat"],"yoast_head":"\nChampeaux - Flavors and Senses<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/flavorsandsenses.com\/en\/champeaux\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Champeaux - Flavors and Senses\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"I remember visiting Paris as a young man, and trying to avoid the metro station Rer de\u00a0Chatelet-Les Halles\u00a0as much as I could, for the bustle of the thousands of people crossing or the suspicious environment of the Les Halles area. 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