{"id":14020,"date":"2016-01-28T12:49:14","date_gmt":"2016-01-28T12:49:14","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.flavorsandsenses.com\/en\/?p=1624"},"modified":"2019-04-07T23:50:25","modified_gmt":"2019-04-07T23:50:25","slug":"taberna-do-mercado","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/flavorsandsenses.com\/en\/taberna-do-mercado\/","title":{"rendered":"Taberna do Mercado"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/a>\u00a0The kitchen of\u00a0Taberna do Mercado<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

Taberna do Mercado<\/em> is, probably, the “foreign” restaurant most spoken off, in Portugal, during the last year. Firstly, for being a restaurant of Portuguese cuisine in London, with the signature of Nuno Mendes and secondly, thanks to Giles Coren’s\u00a0article, a food critic in decline, who decided to use Portugal, Nuno Mendes and the Taberna<\/em> to promote himself, and in the end accomplishing exactly the opposite.<\/p>\n

But talking about what really matters, located at the\u00a0Spitalfields Market,\u00a0East London\u00a0<\/em>(a very special region to Nuno Mendes), Taberna do Mercado<\/em> promises right outside “Food, Wine and Tappas” so we could easily be somewhere in Porto’s downtown or at Bairro Alto<\/em> in Lisbon.<\/p>\n

The decoration transports us to an industrial environment, modern and cozy, a good fit of the tavern concept with\u00a0the vibrant\u00a0East London\u00a0<\/em>environment. There are Portuguese details, from the\u00a0Vista Alegre\u00a0<\/em>tableware, to the wines, and the indispensable\u00a0Super Bock<\/em>\u00a0or the\u00a0\u00c1gua das Pedras!<\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Ant\u00f3nio Galapito\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Nuno Mendes, still at\u00a0Chiltern Firehouse,<\/em>\u00a0gave the commands of Taberna<\/em> to Ant\u00f3nio Galapito, who accompanied him since his debut\u00a0in London with Bacchus, <\/em>having since then passed through some of the best houses to eat in London.\u00a0<\/em>The menu was designed for the dishes to be shared, from snacks, to cheeses and Portuguese charcuterie (highlight to the\u00a0Cacha\u00e7o da B\u00edsaro, <\/em>a\u00a0<\/em>mandatory presence in my fridge throughout the year), and of course, the homemade canned goods, the dishes, the sandwiches and of course, the desserts.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Prawn Riss\u00f3is (rissoles)\u00a0<\/strong>(\u00a35)<\/em><\/p>\n

When the food arrives at the table we completely forget the idea that we could be in Porto or Lisbon. We’re in London and the Portuguese menu is in the hands of a “good lunatic” whose irreverence and boldness is felt in every bite. Proof of that are these deceptively simple rissoles, probably the best I ever tasted (and yes, I already ate plenty). Well fried and crunchy pastry, elegant filling with a good bisque of delicate flavor and right filling. Perfect!<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Homemade Canned goods – <\/strong>Mackerel and tomato sofrito (\u00a35)\u00a0\/ Scallops, nuts and butter (\u00a37)<\/em><\/p>\n

In this area, the mark of Nuno Mendes is even more noticeable, canned goods prepared in sous vide<\/em>\u00a0allowing all the flavors to integrate, without losing the delicate textures. Mackerel and tomato is a classic preparation, which greasiness of the sauce and the texture and flavor of the fish stand out, mostly when accompanied by the delicious sourdough of Taberna<\/em> (what a nice bread!). The scallops, delicious and with the right texture, winning from the combo of citric notes with the slightly spicy cheese and the structure of the dried fruits given by the nuts and the slightly burnt butter. Please send the recipes to the main national industries of the area!<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Eggs<\/strong>,\u00a0Terrincho cheese, \u00a0ratte potato and kale (\u00a38)<\/em><\/p>\n

Could be the Spanish broken eggs, but they’re not, they’re a delicious combination of flavors and textures, where the accomplished creaminess with the eggs and the terrincho<\/em> cheese perfectly combine with the delicate ratte potato and the crunchy of the kale. Comfort food, simple and creative, as expected of a 2.0 version of a tavern.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Prego,<\/strong>\u00a0shrimp paste and sorrel\u00a0(\u00a39)<\/em><\/p>\n

Prego\u00a0<\/em>in bolo do caco\u00a0<\/em>(typical bread from Madeira), with the sliced beef cooked perfectly, nice adding of the shrimp paste and the sorrel, altough I can’t abdicate of the mustard when eating a prego<\/em> (served aside). It was the least surprising and interesting of the dishes, but it’s a well accomplished prego<\/em>, it’s not supposed to impress anybody (or at least not a Portuguese).<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>P\u00e3o de l\u00f3,<\/strong>\u00a0olive oil and salt flower (\u00a312)<\/em><\/p>\n

To finish, I already spent some good moments around an Ovar or Alfeizer\u00e3o P\u00e3o de L\u00f3 (a typical sponge cake), but few, or probably none, ever gave me the pleasure of this one. Sweet enough, moist, and the adding of the olive oil and the salt flower gave \u00a0it an amazing kick.<\/p>\n

The service is relaxed and unpretentious, careful in treating a culture mix, varying among the modern Portuguese and the liberal British. Those needing to go to the Wc can always spend some time seating in the kitchen, watching in loco<\/em>\u00a0the unwinding of the meal.<\/p>\n

Final Remarks\u00a0<\/strong>
\nThere’s not much to say about the cuisine of Nuno Mendes that hasn’t already been said. Obviously here doesn’t rule the haute cuisine<\/em> that gave him a Michelin star and a place among the best restaurants in the world with the Viajante<\/em>, and that’s not the intention. It’s beautiful to see, and taste, the irreverence and creativity that make of Nuno Mendes a singular figure, with the simplest Portuguese gastronomical traditions! From the rissoles to the pregos<\/em>, through the pezinhos de coentrada<\/em> or the p\u00e3o de l\u00f3<\/em>. Everything is invariably Portuguese but is also Londoner and cosmopolitan, and that’s the magic of Nuno Mendes, that others must copy and recriate to help the Portuguese food to show off outside.<\/p>\n

Certainly, a Portuguse restaurant that is needed in Portugal!<\/p>\n

Taberna do Mercado<\/a>
\nOld Spitalfields Market – London
\n+ 44 (0)207 375 0649
\ninfo@tabernamercado.co.uk<\/p>\n

\u00a0Vers\u00e3o Portuguesa<\/strong><\/em><\/a><\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0Text: Jo\u00e3o Oliveira | Photos: Flavors & Senses<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u00a0The kitchen of\u00a0Taberna do Mercado Taberna do Mercado is, probably, the “foreign” restaurant most spoken off, in Portugal, during the last year. Firstly, for being a restaurant of Portuguese cuisine in London, with the signature of Nuno Mendes and secondly, thanks to Giles Coren’s\u00a0article, a food critic in decline, who decided to use Portugal, Nuno…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":25925,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1986,2106],"tags":[1667,2060,2061,2062,1995,2063,2064,1951],"class_list":["post-14020","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-casual","category-london","tag-chefm-taberna-do-mercado","tag-east-london-en","tag-london-en","tag-nuno-mendes-en","tag-restaurant-en","tag-spitalfields-market-en","tag-trendy-en","tag-where-to-eat"],"yoast_head":"\nTaberna do Mercado - Flavors and Senses<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/flavorsandsenses.com\/en\/taberna-do-mercado\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Taberna do Mercado - Flavors and Senses\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"\u00a0The kitchen of\u00a0Taberna do Mercado Taberna do Mercado is, probably, the “foreign” restaurant most spoken off, in Portugal, during the last year. 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