Not long ago, I published here about a dinner that took place in late 2019 at Osteria Gucci (see article). Since then, much has changed. Karime has become the first Mexican woman to achieve the coveted Michelin star, won the FoodArt award at the Best Chef Awards, and, of course, Takahiko “Taka” Kondo, her husband and right-hand man to Massimo Bottura at Osteria Francescana, followed love and family stability and also headed to Florence to share the kitchen together.
Like Charles and Ray Eames, Karime and Taka combine love, passion, and dedication to drive creativity and a free spirit that conveys two worlds fused into one.
It’s not just a mere kitchen of four hands; it’s a guiding thread that combines Mexico, Italy, and Japan with fun, language, and its own identity… here, one experiences the cuisine of Karime and Taka.
When revisiting this charming space of Piazza della Signoria, I keep thinking about how different this ‘Gucci ‘-branded restaurant is from the gastronomic spaces usually opened by major fashion houses. It would be much simpler to do less, present a conservative cuisine, fill the plates and decorations with monograms and social media influencers, and always be packed with a line out the door for the instant of the moment.
Fortunately, that has never been the interest of the Italian establishment, much less of Massimo Bottura, who sees this partnership as a stamp of quality and assurance.
Where one would expect to find a bit of Italian classicism, we found the Italy of Karime and Taka, an Italy of references but full of other ingredients, nuances, and flavors that lead us to stamp our passport in a world of its own.
To start, we are promptly greeted with a Champagne Brocard Pierre L’égarée with an exclusive production of 300 bottles for Osteria Gucci. Zero Dosage in a classic blend of pinot and chardonnay that revealed itself with a striking nose, with curious notes of coriander in contrast with vanilla.
The menu is divided into two tasting menus, the shorter one, ‘Our Souvenirs’ and the longer one, ‘Our New Memories,’ with the possibility of choosing 2 or 3 à la carte dishes and, of course, adding the famous Bottura tortellini to the menu.
This ‘Italian spirit’ was visible right from the start while presenting the different amuse-bouches like an Italian breakfast where appearances come for deception. An exclusive cut of Cinta Senese made by Paolo Parisi, specially made for the Osteria, a cone of Tzatziki and tarama, a Beignet of papa al Pomodoro and Parmigiano, a Maritozzo with robiola cheese, a Cannoli (wanting to be a Cannelloni), stuffed with ragù and goat cheese, and of course, an espresso, prepared from coffee and a black bean broth. Irreverent, elegant, and above all, delicious and fun!
Purple Corn Tostada, Bonito, spices, citrus
The first significant classic by Karime in the kitchen of Gucci Osteria remains an irresistible proposal paying homage to her origins, combined with technical sophistication and plenty of freshness.
Baby, it’s Cold Outside, chawanmushi, mussels, pumpkin, eel, and caviar
An obvious moment from Taka’s origins, with the Chawanmushi (a type of Japanese savory custard or pudding) served as its name suggests to comfort the body. Delicate, flavorful, and elevated to another level of contrast by the sea and salt notes of the caviar.
Memories of a Summer in Versilia, Cod, and Mediterranean flavors
Another dish that breathes Japan in its essence and subtlety, although it thrives on distinctly Mediterranean ingredients. Different textures of cod in an impeccable cooking that, for a Portuguese palate, needed just a bit more salt. High note for the celery, fennel, and almond base that gives the dish a distinct dimension.
Taka’s Bun – Cinta Senese Pork Belly, Kale, and Green Apple
Another Osteria classic and a memory of the more ‘relaxed’ kitchen from the opening of the space, where I also recall Bottura’s hamburger. Karime wanted to give Taka a taste of her homeland in this dish, and she succeeded! Light, creamy, fresh, and fun!
As for the wines, after the champagne, we had a rosé from Slovenia, Guerila da Meteri 2021, made from cabernet and merlot using biodynamic agriculture. Fruity but not overly sweet, with strawberry, cherry, and blackcurrant notes in a well-structured wine.
Animella Mia – Sweetbreads, crispy quinoa, Tomatillos, salsa verde
Sweetbread is one of those ingredients that genuinely excites me; its flavor and texture, when well-prepared, are extraordinary. Here, we tasted one of the most daring and creative versions I’ve ever tried! Clearly inspired by Mexican cuisine, the sweetbread is breaded with crispy quinoa, the richness cut by the acidity of the salsa verde and tomatillos in a kind of pico de gallo. I could eat this every day!
To accompany, we had a Chianti Classico Isole e Olena 2020, full of herbs and flowers in aroma and red fruits on the palate. It was vibrant yet polished and impactful and proved to be a good match for the sweetbreads.
Ponche – Hibiscus, cinnamon, and casciana apple
Breaking the typical trend of fresh and acidic pre-desserts, and because here not everything is as it seems, the ‘punch’ turned into dessert, with various textures, delicacy, and the unique sweetness of hibiscus tying all the elements together.
Vin Brulé
Another drink traditionally present at Christmas parties is Mulled Wine; of course, the ‘mojo’ of the previous dessert remains, so we are treated to a brilliant tart, sorbet, the mulled wine itself, and a delicious mascarpone. When the seemingly simple turns out to be a grand finale…
Or perhaps it wasn’t quite the end yet!
Whether it’s strange or not, after the ‘dessert,’ we surprisingly continued the menu with one of the best moments: Japanese-style eel, a kind of pumpkin ravioli, and shaved horseradish to complement and elevate all the sweetness. A Japan-Italy fusion that lingers in memory.
By this point, I wondered if they had forgotten about the tortellini I had requested at the beginning, but after the eel, few rules remained, and so it was!
Tortellini, white truffle from Alba, and Parmigiano Reggiano
Here are Bottura’s famous tortellini with Parmigiano Reggiano cream, and because we were at its peak, the best white truffles of the year. The tortellini seemed even smaller and more technical than in the past, with the always delicious cream. As for the aroma, there’s little I can convey to you. Indeed, as they say in the restaurant, any moment is good for tortellini.
Finally, it was time for the petit fours, full of autumnal spirit with Tuscan kale macaron, fried chestnut paste, chocolates, and even “pão de queijo”. Once again, everything was at the highest level, with the class and fun promised from the beginning.
About the service, the elegance went beyond the Gucci tableware, from the words in Portuguese to the small jokes with the youngest member of the table; everything went as expected, with special mention to Raymond, who took care of us and made spot-on wine recommendations.
Final Thoughts
Time tends to treat restaurants well, just as good relationships tend to benefit people. That’s what we experienced in this return to Osteria Gucci , nestled on one of the most beautiful squares in the world, Piazza della Signoria. The restaurant is different; it’s fun but, at the same time, more serious regarding the conception of its cuisine. The guiding thread has become the story of Karime and Taka, their experiences, and their own interpretation of an Italy that sometimes takes itself too seriously. The couple’s happiness brought them the creative mojo to break barriers and take the restaurant further! It’s inevitable, and rightly so, that Massimo Bottura’s name still stands at the door, but the absolute certainty is that this is now Karime and Taka’s restaurant, and Bottura must be very proud of it!
To visit once and again!
Prices from 120€ (without wines)
Piazza Della Signoria, 10 – Florence