Mont Bar

Could this be the moment for the democratization of Michelin stars? Can we go to a starry space, drink a glass of wine, and eat a dish or some snacks? Can a bar receive one star? That’s certainly what went through Ivan Castro’s mind, the owner of Mont Bar, when he received the invitation to the 2023 gala. And yes, Barcelona’s small corner wine bar won its 1st star!

But let’s go back further to understand the phenomenon! About ten years ago, Ivan, after a family journey linked to the hotel industry, decided to open a small bar decorated with taste, combining an elegant Bistrot and a wine bar, which served tapas different from the others. The success was excellent; the corner of Carrer de la Diputació and Aribau became small. As fate would have it, Ivan and his wife opened the – even more informal – Mediamanga next door. However, unlike so many stories we all know, the unsuccessful pandemic brought the icing on the cake to Mont Bar. With the closure of Albert Adrià’s entire el Barri project, Fran Agudo – until then the Tickets chef, joined Ivan and Kasaundra to reformulate and further innovate what was being done there.

The idea has always been to create an informal space with a serious cuisine, with products and many avant-garde nuances, where snacks and small sharing dishes stand out, and that was precisely what took us there for a light lunch before a flight back home.

We started with an Albariño chosen from more than 250 references in the restaurant and an amuse bouche based on parsley and mushrooms that hinted that avant-garde cuisine would be the theme of the following snacks. We quickly realized that in the service, they also started to show that we were not in any Catalan corner bar, considering the rigor and knowledge they demonstrated, and took us to other environments.

Cockle Soufflé
Adrià’s almost classic Air Baguette stuffed with hondashi foam, dill, and high-quality cockles opened to perfection— a delicious contrast of textures and sea flavor with hints of freshness.

A unique start was followed by a Wagyu Tartare with chipotle bread, where the texture and unctuousness of the meat stood out, contrasting well with the airy, crunchy, and slightly spicy chipotle base.

 Squid, Chicken skin
If the level was good until now, here it has risen to another level – the mollusk with a silky and smooth texture found only in the best sushi places, in contrast with the crispy and dry skin, takes us into a game of unique flavor and texture… A big, big snack!

Shrimp and pig’s trotter bikini
The next moment, avant-garde cuisine joins hands with the comfort cuisine of the bars they pay homage to at the Mont bar. Pork and shrimp – a famous marriage in Asia but not so much in European cuisine, which here takes shape as a thin sandwich with a gelatinous filling and a crunchy exterior with the small shrimps being well toasted. To eat in double doses!

Tuna belly, pine nut sauce
Entering the “main dishes,” the irresistible tuna belly marinated in teriyaki with pine nut sauce and slightly smoked notes, accompanied by slices of good bread. Beautiful quality product, crafted with precision and respect, in a dish that you won’t want to stop eating. Chicken cannelloni, chanterelles and foie gras
The most conservative dish is also the deepest in flavor, with well-matched autumn notes and techniques that are anything but simple. Starting with the fresh pasta, the still moist and juicy chicken, the rich foie gras sauce, and the excellent demi-glace. To clean the last stain with the crust of the bread!

Lavander Twister
We finish with a return to childhood and the ice creams from Olá (or, in this case, Frigo) in a haute cuisine version, lightly flavored with lavender, with good texture and delicate flavor, perfect for a light finish as intended.

As for the wines, we chose to follow the entire meal with Albariño 2020 1583 de Fefiñanes with expressive aromas with some spicy notes and stone fruit, with the mouth revealing great freshness and a capable structure, the result of its short aging in wood.

As I mentioned previously, the service was impeccable, suggesting that the dream of democratizing haute cuisine had long been part of Ivan’s intentions. Of course, today, after the star, prices have increased slightly, and the tasting menu has appeared almost out of obligation, but it is still possible to choose à la carte and indulge in some snacks or one or another well-hydrated dish with wine. By the glass as in the restaurant’s genesis.

Final considerations
This restaurant is perfect for those who don’t usually enjoy fine dining. The bistro atmosphere is relaxed and the food is technical yet delicious. Unlike most restaurants in this segment, there is no pressure from the chef or institutional rigidity. This elegant restaurant could easily double as an everyday bar, where customers can enjoy the table, the counter or sit on the terrace and enjoy the hustle and bustle. However, the bill might be expensive due to the first-class kitchen and service.

Would I return? Tomorrow, and preferably without a plane to catch so I can delve deeply into the entire menu.