Created to be the standard-bearer of Hotel La Gemma, Luca’s pays tribute to the patriarch of the Cecchi family, who unfortunately could not join the family in entering the hotel industry.
To bring a touch of international flair and sophistication to Florence, something rare in the city, they joined forces with Paulo Airaudo, the Argentine chef who has already made a name for himself. With a well-stamped passport and experiences in Mexico and Peru, it was in Europe, specifically at The Fat Duck (England), Arzak (San Sebastián), and Magnolia (Italy), that he gained the foundation to earn his first Michelin star in Switzerland.
Despite his youth, born in 1985, Paulo’s entrepreneurial and disruptive spirit led him back to San Sebastián, where he now leads Amelia with two Michelin stars – considered by many as the most exciting restaurant in the Basque city – as well as many other restaurant projects in Barcelona, Bogotá, Hong Kong, England, and, of course… now in the city of arts with his Italian-inspired cuisine.
Luca’s exudes Art Deco in an environment of extreme elegance, seamlessly connected to the hotel’s design.
Entering the emerald-toned room, it’s easy to be captivated by a certain coolness and imagine that the entire room would undoubtedly be the perfect setting for a feast with the young Cecchi brothers, filled with good food, fashion, and champagne, lots of champagne!
Already comfortably settled, everything on the table exudes fine dining, although the intention is more about good moments and enjoyment. The quality of the tableware, fabrics, and the team gives us a glimpse of what’s coming.
We start with a series of well-executed amuse-bouches, with a contrast of textures and light and elegant flavors that prepare the palate for the menu. The standout is undoubtedly the artichoke broth with vanilla notes served at the beginning, which comforts us, and of course, the oyster with caviar and champagne sauce that takes us far from the center of Tuscany. Obviously, everything was well accompanied by a Franciacorta Marchese Antinori Cuvée Royale sparkling wine.
Next came excellent handmade grissini, as usual in Italian gourmet restaurants, and a well-executed sourdough that is like a blessing next to the plain Tuscan bread.
Amberjack, turnip, tomato water and ume kosho
To start the main courses, a beautiful amberjack and turnip flower, a reinterpretation of Italian crudo, brings notes of a perfect marriage between Japan and Italy. The contrast between the spicy and sweet plum paste with the freshness of turnip and tomato water and the fish’s fat and delicacy is delicious.
Tortelli, razor clams and vin jeune sauce
A Tuscan classic – potato ravioli – served with the magic of an author’s cuisine. Brilliant flavors and textures, with an excellent touch of the sea to balance the richness and creaminess of the sauce. I could spend the whole dinner eating this!
To complement, a Pinot Grigio Bottega Vinai 2022, still very young but fresh and with a pleasant acidity to pair with the dishes.
Monkfish, bagna càuda, clams, potatoes and chard
The main course took us to monkfish, cooked in two stages but turning out drier than intended. Positive notes for the accompaniments, especially the bagna càuda modernized with herbs and trout roe and the combination of earthy flavors with sea notes. It could have been a beautiful dish!
To break away from the routine of fish/white wine, the choice was a 2020 Pinot Noir Bourgogne “Maison Dieu” from Domaine de Bellene. A light red wine with an easy aroma and short body that quickly cleansed the sauce without overshadowing the dish.
Goat flan, plum, honey, and oat crunch
Where we might expect a panna cotta, a goat flan with a silky consistency and delicate flavor emerges, well paired with the sweet and slightly acidic flavors of plum, honey, and oat crunch.
A simple but charming ending!
For dessert, and as a digestive, not one but two liqueurs were tasted: a François Peyrot Pear Cognac and a Naturale Amaro. Two distinct drinks, but each fulfilled its mission in its own style.
The service went flawlessly, with exceptional care for the baby and her needs – which can often be seen as a hindrance to the service but was quickly overcome with willingness and a good dose of friendliness.
Final Remarks
Paulo Airaudo and his team, led by Olivia Cappelletti, have a raw diamond in their hands with the location, decoration, bar, and an aura of old-fashioned romance reminiscent of the 1920s, captivating us at first contact. The gastronomic proposal, based on a small menu that prioritizes tasting, aims to understand all the influences and nuances of this “Italian” cuisine. I suggest opting for the more extended menu, as the 4-course menu seemed a bit short (I would still be eating Tortellis right now).
Despite that, the menu is safe, without taking significant risks; that’s not the goal, with comfort cuisine gaining a distinct and international touch.
Considering this and combining the sensations the space conveys with the hotel’s aesthetics and the Cecchi family’s journey, Luca’s has everything to become a kind of Italian-style Costes, although with a more gastronomic character. I foresee a bright future, full of a lively and international clientele that promises to shake up Florentine classicism.”
Prices from 115€ (without wines)
Via dei Cavalieri 2c – Florence