Il Palagio

To speak of the Four Seasons Firenze is to talk about service and hospitality at its highest expression, a plethora of details that have made it recognized as the most emblematic property under the Four Seasons brand and more recently as the 9th best hotel in the world by the newly created 50 Best Hotels.

Entering the Palazzo della Gherardesca, strolling through its endless gardens (the most extensive private garden in Florence), and observing all the architectural splendor that lives and breathes there is undoubtedly one of the most magical experiences we can have in hospitality.

But let’s leave all the pomp and circumstance of the hotel for another occasion (the hotel is currently in a broad and challenging phase of remodeling and updating its rooms, so we will write about them once they are finished). What brings us here is the Atrium bar, which we will review in another article, and Il Palagio, the hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant that truly lives up to its name.

As for the decoration, as expected, every detail was kept intact. Il Palagio is easily the embodiment of the proper “romantic restaurant.” Spacious, modernly arranged tables complemented by chandeliers, works of art, and high ceilings create a unique, timeless atmosphere perfect for fine dining.

Behind this Florentine symbol is Paolo Lavezzini, an Italian with a Portuguese accent since 2021. Before that, he worked in palace kitchens in Paris, such as Alain Ducasse at Plaza Athénée, Le Royal Monceau, the legendary Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence, and in recent years, Fasano and the now-closed Four Seasons São Paulo.

Taking on this “life project,” as he calls it, Paolo also wanted to bring some of his essence as a person and chef, as well as his experiences outside of Italy. An avowed supporter of a KM0 kitchen, he quickly surrounded himself with the best Tuscan producers to create a menu that is clearly Italian but not lacking in distinct techniques and flavors (you might easily find a “pão de queijo”, for example).

But more than the story, let’s move on to the actual experience that brought us here. After being welcomed by those who know the names and faces of their customers and being comfortably settled, we were treated to an excellent Italian sparkling wine, Franciacorta Cabochon Fuoriserie N°024, with well-balanced acidity and structure, fine and persistent bubbles, and notes full of nuances that paired very well with the first appetizers with different beet textures.

Cabbage, grapefruit, and fennel foam
Another amuse-bouche, also focused on the vegetable world, with excellent contrast of textures, moderate intensity but full of freshness and good acidity to prepare the palate for what would follow.

After some delicious artisanal grissini, it was time for the bread, fortunately not the traditional unsalted Tuscan bread, but a sourdough bread from the famous Florentine bakery Leonardo, good butter, and delicious olive oil from the 2023 harvest, monovarietal Frantoio from LeFontacce.

The Carrot
Organic carrot served in different textures and flavors, from confit in its own juice to a brunoise, through puree and oil contrasting with barley and buckwheat ash. A good play around a single element, where no notes were missing to contrast with the natural sweetness of the root. A particularly positive note for the addition of ginger which elevated the whole dish.

 Scallop, pumpkin, yuzu, and licorice 
A dish that reflects the chef’s adventures beyond borders, full of nuances, an impeccable scallop, and a delicate contrast of sweetness and acidity that makes us want more.

 Black grouper, fennel, clams, and iodized sauce
Delicate fish and good cooking points in a dish of deep sea flavor, where, once again, freshness is a point to highlight.

Accompanying the first dishes was a Herrenberg Kabinet 2022 Riesling from Maximin Grünhaus, a wine that, despite still being very young, generously presented the characteristics of the producer and whose fresher and herbaceous aromas, along with some mature notes on the palate, made a great pairing with the presented dishes.

Fusilloni with egg white, red mullet, grapefruit, and osetra caviar
A great dish, with refined execution and flavor that brings Italian tradition to a fine dining table. Pasta made with semolina and egg white, probably Pietro Massi, perfectly combined with maritime flavors, where the rich flavor of red mullet and the richness of caviar stand out. A great dish!

Harmonizing the dish, there was a Barbeito Boal 10 years old – It is always a pleasure to find national wines on menus beyond borders. Here, the choice was particularly successful, with a semi-sweet wine that we would more readily associate with foie gras or cheese, working very well with a dish of deep sea flavor, much due to the iodized notes and the acidity of the wine.

Garfagnana barley, ox foot, and porcini mushrooms
This exceptional barley dish brings traditional cuisine to the table, treating it with more rigor and refined techniques. Flavor and depth in a comforting dish that takes us to grandma’s house and embraces us with love. Very, very good!

“Roasted, not Roasted.”
Starting with the more decadent dishes, the chef wanted to play with a classic Sunday roast, serving those enticing parts that no one can resist, with a deep and intense sauce that makes it impossible to stop dipping the bread. It could be in any tavern or osteria, but in a palace, we lose our manners and attack the plate to ‘fare la scarpetta.’

Chianina Thousand Layers, celery, and black sesame
To finish, and because they were at their peak, we couldn’t pass a dish elevated by the magnificent white truffle. Once again, the chef’s preference for adding fresh and striking vegetable elements to the ensembles is evident, with the celery stalk refreshing the rich stew of meat and its sauces. All are aromatically enriched by a beautiful specimen of white truffle.

For me, meat dishes can always be like this!

For these more sumptuous dishes, the sommelier proposed a Brunello di Montalcino 2018 Casanovina Montosoli from Le Ragnaie, and what a beautiful wine it was. Complex and concentrated just right, with notes of very ripe black fruit combined with herbaceous and earthy aromas that, in the mouth, become a balanced set by the persistent acidity and long-lasting memory. A great, great Brunello!

Italian chicory, yogurt, and tarragon
To keep the menu line, the pre-dessert also resorts to plants with rich and peculiar flavors, this time with Italian radicchio and its spicy notes balancing very well with the frozen yogurt and tarragon.

Polenta, chestnuts, vermouth, and cavolo nero
Sweet polenta, prepared with milk and served as a cream to hide the other elements. A good play on textures and autumn flavors in a light and fresh ending. However, it lacked something more to be the expected conclusion for such a well-executed menu.

What was missing from the previous dessert came in the form of petit fours, with a wide selection of minor sins, from nougat to chocolate, through the traditional macaron. All of them being executed with precision and delicacy.

We could write high praises about the service. The team led by Roberto Pennacchiotti was excellent in all aspects, from the reception to the care of a tiny baby who certainly won’t be the restaurant’s most frequent customer, especially for the ease with which they made the entire service flow. Often, we feel that a service is too forced and tries too hard to meet Michelin stereotypes; here, everything seems natural and innate.

A special mention should be made to the work of sommelier Walter Maccia, who proposed excellent choices, considering that we specifically requested not to have a 1:1 wine pairing. In a country where wine is a flag, it is always good and healthy to see pairings traveling beyond borders without restrictions or prejudices.

Final remarks
Entering a hotel like the Four Seasons Florence is always a special moment; it is like entering an enchanted world where everyone is a prince and princess, and Il Palagio is where hospitality dresses properly. Paolo Lavezzini’s Italian cuisine brought a breath of fresh air to a certain classicism typical of these spaces, from the combination of textures to the choice of fresh and vegetable elements that mark the presence throughout the menu, making this new era of the restaurant a must-visit when passing through the city. Suppose you are looking for an elegant environment, with service comparable or superior to restaurants with more stars and a balanced and refreshing cuisine while maintaining Italian inspiration and comfort. In that case, Il Palagio should be on your Florence bucket list.

We promise to come back!